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21

Not really. But it is a LOT more expensive to do it this way. The learning curve on RA2 Select doesn't exist. It's still a mobile app for configuration. If you can program Caseta you can program RA2 Select.

The COST is large as there is no upgrade path from Caseta to RA2 at all. You must replace all of your switches/dimmers and bridge. Where if you start with RA2 Select you can then later upgrade to RadioRA 2 by upgrading your main repeater and you get to keep the investment of switches/dimmers/fan controllers etc.

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22

Ok, I was misinformed. But I still enjoy my Lutron Caseta. One of the best things is that, when I migrated from C-5 to C-7, there was no migration effort for the Lutron Caseta - I just restored a backup from the C-5 onto the C-7, and everything was there. No pairing.

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23

Hey I'm not knocking on Caseta! I have RadioRA 2 and I still have my Caseta Pro bridge online too.

Here's a little trick all of you. Devices between Caseta and RA2 are not compatible. BUT you can use multiple main repeaters / bridges in a system. So... you can use the devices from both systems :slight_smile:

My example are the Caseta Plugin dimmer/switch. This device is not available in RA2 in this form factor or price. I like these for holiday lighting all put into a scene and then pico control for my wife and it's magic. Synchronized decoration lighting!

And bonus if your decoration lights are incandescent... yes it can be dimmed. :slight_smile:

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24

When you say "So... you can use the devices from both systems", are you referring to using Hubitat to tie the two systems together? Or is there a way from the Lutron side to tie Caseta and RadioRA2 together?

25

You have to use some other system to tie things together.

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26

Thanks. That is what I thought, but was hoping for a Lutron only solution. :wink:

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27

That would be nice. HomeWorks mixes in RA2 stuff but not Caseta. Caseta is it's own island.

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28

First, welcome!

I think you should determine what your use cases are, and then do your research as to the different ways of implementing those. There are always more ways to skin any particular cat, and you will find a myriad of opinions about which is "best." My own opinion: the best solution is the one that works for you in your environment. Period.

As an example, my journey down this rabbit hole started because I lived with an old, arthritic cat who liked to sleep on my chest. Moving her to turn out my bedside lamp was painful for her. So I bought a Hue bridge and bulb, and an Echo Spot (to use as a bedside clock). I could say, "Alexa, turn off the bed lamp," and the lamp turned off with no need to move the cat. Pretty cool! Then I thought it might be nice if the kitchen lights came on by themselves... etc., etc., etc.

For me, I didn't really want to mess around with dashboards. I want things to just happen. I don't mind telling Alexa to do stuff, if necessary, but I don't want to push virtual buttons. My system is set up to be pretty automatic. I do tell Alexa good morning and good night to change modes (Home and Asleep). And I do have dashboards set up in case I need to check on something when away from home. But otherwise I pretty much ignore it.

So think about what you want to have automated, and how you want to control it, because your mileage is most likely different from mine. This is a wonderful forum and many people will be happy to help you.

Also, if you live with others who may have opinions about all this home automation stuff, be sure to take their thoughts into consideration. :wink:

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29

It's funny you mention this because after doing my lutron research today I realized how many switches/dimmers they had available. They all look the same to me aside from their aesthetic differences. That said I am clearly wrong so it would probably be wise to start with the caseta line since this is all unfamiliar territory for me now. Especially since the moment you mentioned radio RA2 Select HomeWorks QS I was completely and utterly lost. I would hate to get discouraged and feel over my head on one of the very first "step" in getting my system started. Right?

30

Lucky for me I just bought a home and am all by myself to do as I please in terms of home automation! Woohoo!! One more reason for me to start learning to tinker :sweat_smile:

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31

Just my opinion, but I think Lutron Caseta is more than enough in most homes...very reliable, very high quality, pretty easy to set up and link to HE.

I didn't actually bring up the RA2 and related, I've never used them and am not familiar with them. :slight_smile:

32

For lighting - As a simple system to build on, I've found that you can't go too wrong using tradfri or hue bulbs on the hue hub you already have, and through the hubitat built in app, control these with any switches of your choice. My favorite controllers are the hue dimmer and osram smart+ 4 button devices, although of course both of these have the disadvantage that someone else may turn off the bulb at the switch. Hoping to move towards qubino/fibaro switches so that this won't be an issue but this is a work in progress.

33

IMHO it's best to start w/smart switches controlling dumb bulbs in some or most spots, and then add in smart bulbs in select locations where you want either color or white light tone control.

For smart bulbs in a wall/ceiling fixture you really must control it through a smart switch. For lamps it's key to provide a smart button that is easier to reach than the lamp's switch, so that power never gets turned off.

34

I assume you are referring to smart switches that have the option to disable their ability to switch off the power to the load? Then use the smart switch as a button controller?

Just trying to make sure the OP understands what you mean, as it can be overwhelming when one is new on the home automation scene! :wink:

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35

Yes, and thanks for clarifying, very important, and I didn't make that clear in my post! :slight_smile:

A Zooz or Inovelli both do that, not sure what others. As you note, rather than killing power to the light fixture, those (and likely some other) switches can be programmed to control the smart bulb in the fixture, essentially using a switch as a button device.

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36

I'd like to expand on this.... with this scenario of usage the switch requires a working "hub" to control the light bulb. The switch is not directly controlling the "smart" bulb. What this leads to is a non-functioning lighting system (at the switch) in the event that the hub has issues. To operate the bulb you will have to have your phone or other device to then use the app to control the bulb. This is something to be aware of.

I'm not a fan of this type of setup nor recommend it.

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37

That is indeed a concern, but my hub is reliable enough that I personally don't care, and most smart bulbs have a "backup plan" you can use to at least get basic on/off control should that happen (turning power off and back on, either just once or a few times for many that otherwise remember state--and that should still be possible if your switch has an air gap, as most do, or a way to re-enable local control without the hub, as the two I know of also do).

But if it's a big deal, you can avoid it by using Z-Wave bulbs and Z-Wave Association. There just aren't very many of those (Inovelli is out of stock and the best Z-Wave bulb I've used, which is not exactly a hard record to beat).

Most of my smart bulbs are Hue, so besides the Hue app, I have a few Hue-paired control devices like the Tap and Dimmer in important rooms if I really need them. But I don't remember the last time I did. :slight_smile:

But yes, I wouldn't totally ignore this possibility if you have any "acceptance factors" to worry about.

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38

I'm going to differ a bit from others, falling in line mostly with @jabecker early in this thread. I'm not a fan of Lutron Caseta, mostly because I think they're ugly. Technology wise, they're great. Appearance wise? Not so much.

If I had sufficiently complex automation, the Pico might draw me in, but a Samsung Zigbee button is usually sufficient for my needs.

I'd also say, don't limit yourself to one single protocol. I think Zigbee and Zwave and Clearconnect alll have their places (as do WiFi and Ethernet). Pick the device that most suits your need or preferences, and then work on the mesh as you need it.

With regards to the Light Bulb debate. Use Hue/Smart bulbs where it makes sense, and Dumb bulbs where it make sense. I find that Hue lets me solve stupid wiring issues in certain rooms in my remodeled 1970s house, and is great for table lamps and plug-in light fixtures.

For the record, even where I use smart bulbs in ceiling fixtures (pots and ceiling lights) I use smart switches. If the automation is well thought out, then the switch is rarely an issue, and sometimes useful (as when the hub becomes unresponsive for example).

Elsewhere, I use decent brand dimmable LED bulbs and Zwave+ Dimmers. Likewise, in a pair of living room fans wired to the same switch, I use Hampton Bay Zigbee fan controllers, while in rooms with a single fan and good wiring, I use Innovelli LZW36 fan controllers (Zwave+).

To fill out my mesh(es) I use a mix of Jasco/GE/Honewell in-wall outlets in both Zigbee and Zwave+ flavors.

I lean towards Zigbee sensors, but have Zwave+ ones as well, similarly, I tend to buy Zooz and Inovelli wall switches (Zwave+) but I have a pair of Jasco Zigbee switches....

My suggestion? Try a few things, see what you like and work from there. These forums are invaluable, and it is definitely worth reading what's here. Just keep in mind, every house is different, both physically and in terms of the signal environment, and the acceptance of you and your family for all the trials of Home Automation.

Good Luck and Welcome.

S.

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39

Exactly why I don't use smart bulbs in my home in this manner. :slight_smile:

My wife would hit the roof if light switches didn't work if the hub was down and I was away. Too dangerous for me ever to return home, probably. Everyone has different tolerances for this risk, and different partners w/different tolerances. In my case it's a no-no. I have one fan controlled by two Lutron Pico wall switches, but we have and keep close track of the original remote which still works and can control it if the hub is down. Same for all our ceiling fans that are normally controlled by Picos...the "real" remote is close by.

That's why I'm still here alive to talk about it. :wink: :smiley:

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40

I’d rather not add another thread for this silly question, so I’ll add it here in hopes someone can answer. I just went to make the jump and buy my HE only to see they don’t sell the C5 anymore? It seems a lot of people aren’t to happy with the new c-7 (what is available now). What’s the answer for me? Is there a tech black market to buy a c5 or will the c7 work just fine for my beginner needs?