New to this smart stuff

Your biggest issue may be your lock, as locks often are hard to pair unless the hub is very close by (a few feet) as many go into low-power mode during pairing to reduce risk of the signal being broadcast too broadly. I don't know specifically about the Kwikset you're getting. You may end up needing a long ethernet cable so you can have the hub near the lock to pair.

I suggest slowing down the purchases until you learn a bit more about home automation with Zigbee and Z-Wave devices.

You’re going to learn too quickly and at great cost that the WiFi devices slow down your Wi-Fi network, can be a security concern, cannot join to the Hubitat Elevation hub directly (with a few exceptions), and are dependent on the cloud to function (again, there are a few exceptions, but generally that is the case).

The real problem with cloud dependent WiFi devices (other the aforementioned), is that if the manufacturer goes out of business or cannot support the cost of supporting the devices and their required cloud service, you will be left with a pretty useless device.

Cloud devices are also often much slower to respond. The Hampton Bay fan could be the one exception if you got it for a good price and really like the look of it. They’re unlikely to go out of business since the company has been around for so long, but device support with their cloud service is a wild card for sure. Might be around for many years, or maybe just a few.

But regardless, if the fan is controllable by Alexa today, than you can use Hubitat Elevation to control it as well. It’s pretty easy to create a simple virtual switch that is seen by the Alexa app as a motion sensor triggering when turned on. That trigger of the virtual motion sensor can activate an Alexa Routine, which can then use a new Custom Actions feature of Alexa routines. You type what you would normally say, and then when the Alexa Routine is activated, the fan or other Alexa compatible device will do what you wrote in the Custom Action field. Again, this won’t be that fast, and it relies on the cloud servers all being fully operational, but it will work.

However, if you are not married to the fan with the built in WiFi, then just a standard ceiling fan with a Z-Wave fan/light controller like the Inovelli LZW36 or a Caséta fan controller (requires the Smart Bridge Pro as well) with smart bulbs and a Lutron Pico controller are a better choice since they can be used with just about any standard ceiling fan.

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The fan it self isn't smart if i am reading it right it uses a wifi based smart remote to connect to my alexa.

The fan probably will be the last wifi smart based thing i get. I have just been bitten with the smart home bug now. But I will do alot more research into things now

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The fan is "smart" in that it's a Smart by Bond fan...as I noted above there is an existing community Bond integration that you can use to add your fan to your Hubitat and control from Hubitat using automations based on motion, contact, humidity, etc., as well as buttons and switches.

For example, one of my fans (which is connected via the Bond integration) in the Device list:

2020-12-04 20_30_36-Devices

Its parent and child device pages:

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That’s handy. Maybe something that @bbigcnote should do once more comfortable with the hub and how it works. That’s pretty simple for you or me to setup, but maybe a little daunting for someone just getting their feet wet in home automation.

Very cool that the fan is basically good to go for either Alexa Routines or direct control with the community Bond integration :+1:t2:

He should take it at a speed that he is comfortable with.

The automation is pretty drop-dead simple to connect...

After the fan is set up:

  1. Load the Bond integration app (it's in HPM)
  2. Launch app and fill in bond fan IP and token (gotten from the Bond app)
  3. App finds fan, check a box to add it to hubitat and you're done

The hardest part would be installing HPM, as it has to be done manually. :slight_smile:

that seems simple enough to do. im pretty excited for my hub to arrive now.

oh wait i just now was rereading this on my computer instead of my phone and seen this. so you are saying the fan itself can be contrtolled through the bond app. so i can program it to do certain actions through the hubitat dashboard with out having to use the alexa first. so voice control could be through alexa but i could also network it through a motion sensor or some other kind of action seperate from alexa app.

i do have a long cable from when i remodeled in late 1990's i ran ethernet plugs to other rooms thorugh out the house. but do you think it would be possible to connect it right beside the hub then install it after already setting it up. i would have to remove the power to the lock and while installing so im not sure how long it would hold any thing in memory. i might be able to also put my hub in center of house instead of where the router is now which is in opposite corner.

And Friday and Saturday and Sunday. Welcome to the Hubitat community!

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Install the lock and then take the hub next to the lock w/your long cable and do the lock inclusion into Hubitat. Then put the hub back in its normal spot.

One possible issue w/your lock is that you have almost no Z-Wave devices, so your lock won't have any "repeaters" - mains powered devices like Z-Wave light switches, Z-Wave plugs/outlets, or Z-Wave extenders (devices who's only purpose is to enhance the range/power of your Z-Wave network) so it will be communicating back to the hub on its own. Only way to know if this is a problem is to set the lock up w/the hub next to it, and after you've put the hub back in it's normal spot use the lock w/Hubitat and see if it is reliable. If you have issues w/the lock communicating consistently you may have to add a repeater. Easiest for you in the short term would be a Z-Wave plug or repeater you can just plug into an existing outlet in your house, between your lock and your hub.

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In all seriousness, when you start adding Z-Wave devices and just have a few, so that the mesh hasn’t gotten strong with multiple routes for each device, reliable communication with Z-wave devices may be a problem. I believe the recommendation for repeaters (mains-powered devices, which are required to repeat, or range extender repeaters), is about every 20 to 25 feet or so, with a shorter distance if there are thick intervening building structures such as bricks, concrete, or mirrors.

Thanks for the responses. I have been looking at some z wave plus outlets. I have some I can place to build a relay to the lock. I was looking at light switches but almost all of my rooms have 2 or 3 way light switches. So I'm thinking outlets would be easier right now. I have been researching tonight and seen some with a regular constant supply plug in and one smart controlled plug.

If you want something really quick, the GE/Jasco/Honeywell wall plugs (plug into existing outlet) are quick and easy to add, and have served as good repeaters for me. Something like this. There are GE branded versions that are the same HW/FW and work just as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Appliance-Controlled-Together-Repeater/dp/B07B3SWWTH/ref=sr_1_4?crid=QS93WZSHBH44&dchild=1&keywords=honeywell+smart+plug&qid=1607382053&sprefix=honeywell+smart+plug%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-4

There is also the not as pretty, yet very effective Hank plug that I wrote about here:

Others have had success w/the Ring repeaters but as you'll see in my thread, some of us have not.

Once you have repeaters in, regardless of what kind, if they are actively being used by your other devices you need to leave them there, or replace them w/other repeaeters if you later want to remove them. So doing something you don' thave to later re-do is usually simpler.

I was looking these just now.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-15A-Z-Wave-Plus-TR-Receptacle-WH/1002717112
I can have them switched out before my hub arrives. But I can't find anywhere that says the act as signal repeaters too. I was assuming the do though

All Z-Wave devices that are mains powered are repeaters. Battery-powered devices do not repeat.

I would go w/GE Enbrigten or Honeywell outlets. Simply because I have years of experience with them, and no experience w/Eaton.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighten-Controllable-SmartThings-14288/dp/B07361JZ2H/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3E602VOO782FD&dchild=1&keywords=ge+zwave+outlet&qid=1607385580&sprefix=ge+zwave+out%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Appliance-Receptacle-Resistant-Controllable/dp/B07B3HKTZY/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=honeywell+zwave+outlet&qid=1607385683&sr=8-2

Honeywell is a little cheaper and is the same HW/FW.