New House and New Everything - WiFi lights?

Looking for suggestions for easy lighting solution into Hubitat.

Previous house was an Insteon based setup. Worked well and was good tech at the time of deciding what to use. It was complex and expensive but very functional.

New house has nothing. I was at Home Dep. and picked up a set of 4 Wiz Phillip lights and was pleasantly surprised with the tech and price.

I now want to do more in this house and since I am not fully researched up in the new tech I am asking this community what they think about WiFi light sources and which integrates the best into the Hubitat tech.

Simplicity and reliability are key for this to be successful.

Thanks for constructive inputs.

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Welcome to the forum! This is a great place to ask questions and get advice (sometimes contradictory admittedly) before committing to a home automation technology.

I can't speak to the Wiz stuff but I avoid wifi in general and use it only when there is no realistic alternative and (almost always) when there is integration that does not rely on cloud connectivity. I also avoid smart bulbs/fixtures and instead use smart switches - all Lutron Caseta in my case. The smartest bulb or fixture can be defeated by the dumbest wall switch. When I have a fixture that cannot be controlled by a smart switch, or I need to change colors, I use Hue zigbee bulbs connected to a Hue hub and then I do my best to defeat any physical switch in the mix.

The Caseta switches are rock solid in terms of reliability though they are a bit pricey when compared to some alternatives, and you need their PRO series hub for local integration, but they just work. And the Pico button controllers are awesome.


For WiFi I think the general consensus is Lifx.. replacing bulbs for home automation can get expensive and complicated especially for recessed lighting where individual bulb control is not really necessary nor is changing colors. Table Lamps are good candidates for smart bulbs.

I agree with @brad5 that Caseta works great but the style might not be to everyone's taste. You might also consider installing Z-Wave or Zigbee switches...and leave the bulbs standard LED.


If you're going whole home, I would shy away from Wi-Fi. Zigbee is much better for this because it uses group messaging. Also, depending on the size of your house, you can fill up the ip table on your router real fast if everything is Wi-Fi. Plus, some routers can start to get bogged down the more devices you add. If you are trying to save money and don't need RGB everywhere, then smart switches might be a better option in places where multiple bulbs are controlled by one switch.


My only advice is stay away from Wifi bulbs/switches.
Lutron/ZigBee/Z-wave hardwired switches if possible. Stick with one protocol for the switches. If not, get Phillips hue bulbs with Hue bridge.


Do you have a preference between smart switches/dimmers and smart bulbs?

For a whole house, personally I would go with mostly switches. Bulbs mostly only add color and color temperature control, which isn’t really necessary for most people in 100% of the light fixtures.


I suggest smart switches/dimmers for most of your lights. I don’t think most people need the majority of their lights to be color capable. I’ve been very happy with Lutron Caseta for this. They are well engineered and rock solid. That’s what I want above all in my lighting. They are a little pricey, but I think the money is well spent in terms of reliability. You do need a Caseta Pro 2 Bridge, but that also gives you the ability to use the Pico remotes which when integrated with Hubitat, can control virtually any device connected to Hubitat. Picos are reasonably priced and have great battery life.

I do have some floor and table lamps, and some light strips that are color capable. I use Hue bulbs and Hue light strips for these, and I typically control them with Lutron Pico remotes or the Hue remotes (dimmer). The Hue bulbs are connected to a Hue bridge. The Hue bridge is integrated with Hubitat using Hubitat’s built in Hue integration. I find Hue to be very reliable and it works well with Hubitat.


WiFi lights are inexpensive. They are designed for use by the masses. However, they are unlikely to be as robust as alternative that may cost more.

If you plan on putting in a Hubitat system, I highly recommend that you consider the Lutron Caseta system. It uses its own wireless protocol called Clear Connect. I have dimmers and switches throughout my house. Here are the reasons I recommend them as well as potential concerns.

Lutron devices are fairly expensive. If you try to do an entire house at one time, it will cost you. I worked through that issue by installing the most critical devices first and then adding others as funds were available.

In order to connect to Hubitat, you will need the more expensive Lutron Pro 2 hub rather than the basic hub.


Caseta is rock solid. I did get one dimmer that was dead on arrival, but the hardware store replaced it and the new one worked great. Because it uses its own frequency, it is less subject to interference. WiFI, Bluetooth, and Zigbee all share similar radio frequency space, so interference is possible,

Installing three-way and four-way lighting circuits is easy. The Lutron dimmer or switch is installed at the primary location and all other locations use Lutron Pico Remotes which are pared directly with the primary device. Thus, they will continue to work even if the hub goes off-line.

You can pair a Pico remote with more than one dimmer if you wish to do so.

The integration between Hubitat and Lutron operates using Telnet. Thus, it is blazing fast.

You can use voice control to trigger the Lutron devices. I use Amazon Alexa and it works great as long as the Internet is operational.

Switches normally require a neutral wire. However, there are dimmers that do not require the neutral.

Thus, I could not be more satisfied with Lutron Caseta, well, perhaps I would be happier if they were less expensive, but this is a situation where you get what you pay for.

If Lutron were not available, Zigbee would be my next choice. I do have some Philips Hue light bulbs in lamps with a single bulb. For lamp stands with multiple bulbs, I use plug-in Lutron Caseta dimmers.

Z-wave would be my third choice as I have found Z-wave to be more finicky. Devices are more difficult to pair, may leave ghost devices, and are more likely to drop off-line than Zigbee, at least in my experience.

WiFI would be my last resort. Because Hubitat has a ethernet connection with your router, WiFi devices can be controlled as long as a suitable driver is available. However, many WiFI devices require control over the Internet using a proprietary app. That negates the advantage off Hubitat being able to work even when the Internet is not available.

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Wonderful advice from everyone. Thanks for that.

This house has no dimmers and all of the PAR bulbs are the wrong Color Temp. It's like living in a Hospital. I want the ability to change color temps on most of the ceiling lights in the house and need to do it from remote. Ceiling height and convenience are the reasons for that requirement. RGB is a novelty for us and likely would wear off over time.

The consensus is to shy away from WIFI lights and I appreciate that advice and plan to take it.

Lutron Casetta seems to be a frontrunner and I am going to grab a hub and dimmer for my office to give it a spin.

Two more additions to this house which I would like advice is for the following:

  1. Garage door operation and status. I have 2 garages both with individual doors. I would like the ability to know when they are open and the ability to open and close them via Hubitat.

  2. I have several control panels (HTD LyncPad) in many areas of the house which were part of the previous whole house audio system. That system has been removed and replaced by Sonos. I would like to use some of these location with hardware that can display room specific information. I believe that there is a CAT5 cable behind each one centrally run to a Patch Panel where all my Internet/Server/Switch/ Device HUBs are located. I am looking for suggestions for what compatible hardware I could use to accomplish this.

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For Caseta, just a friendly reminder to get the PRO2 bridge - this is not the same (non-pro) bridge model that's widely available at big-box stores.

LOTS of threads/posts here in the community about garage door control. The Zen16 or Zen17 are popular relays to use, but certainly not the only options.

Welcome aboard!!

Is this the part number from casetawireless dot com website:


L-BDG2-WH-C (Canada)

Nope, you want L-BDGPRO2.

Lutron makes caseta switches that don’t require a neutral. PD-5WS-DV for example.

Thank you for providing the PN.

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Any suggestions for LED bulbs that allow me to change color temp now that I have made the decision to stay away from WIFI bulbs and embrace Casetta Pro2 Bridge and their switches?

If one of your primary goals is to be able to change color temps in most of your fixtures, you might want to stay away from Caseta. It’s better for smart bulbs to leave them always on, rather than turn the power to them on/off at a switch.

I believe there are some z-wave switches that are able to disable their own internal relay, so that they become in effect a button controller. They’re no longer controlling power to the bulb, but you can still use Hubitat to control the bulbs when the switch is touched manually.


The only bulbs that can change color temperature as a function of dimming with a Caséta dimmer are Philips warmglow bulbs.


Good call, aaiyar! OP, just to add a bit more info, these Philips warm-glow bulbs are dumb bulbs - they simply go to warmer whites as they are dimmed.

You don't want to mix smart bulbs with Caseta hard-wired switches/dimmers - that's guaranteed to end in frustration (maybe later, likely sooner). However, if you get the Pro bridge, you can then use Pico remotes (which are relatively cheap) to do just about anything within Hubitat (to include controlling smart bulbs).


Great information, this is what I need to know. I assume I can create a software max so they can't be ramped fully, in turn creating a Hospital ER?

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I don't know their exact kelvin range off-hand, I just know they are intended to better mimic the dimming "looks" of a regular incandescent bulb. I'm pretty sure the max kelvin is ~2700-3000 at full bright, and I think they ramp down to ~2200K (maybe 2000K?) at low dim.

Anyway, they aren't "daylight" 5000+K or anything like that at the high end - the high vs low end kelvin spread isn't that wide.

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I love my kasa switches (work locally)