This is also a good option and would give you the ability to dim the lights at night. Something to consider...
I'm in a similar situation. Bath fan and light are wired together in a single fixture. Light and fan comes on at the same time, but I would like to separate the two. Unfortunately, it's 12/2 wiring and it is a complete nightmare to fish new wiring to the location.
My brain is unable to think this through clearly and was hoping for an extra set of eyes/problem-solving.
The current switch controlling both is a GE Smart Dimmer. However I assume it still kills current to the actual fixture when it is off (suppose I can test this later with a low voltage non-contact sensor.)
-
Is there a way to somehow separate the light from the fan in the fixture with something such as a Shelly 1 smart relay or would both be "off" if the actual switch is off?
-
Would it be feasible and easier to simply remove the switch altogether, pigtail the hots, cover the switch plate with a Lutron Pico, then replace the bulbs themselves with smart bulbs (to be controlled by the pico)? The lights would always be technically "on" and receiving power. The fan would then have a Shelly 1 splicing off of it and would have another smart remote to communicate with just the fan.
I really I could use something like ABC for the Lutron, but other family members would totally be confused. I'm trying to keep it simple for them.
Any double relay should do the trick (or a smart bulb and a single relay for the fan). The Zooz ZEN52 is a zwave one I know of but you would lose dimming on the light. If you need dimming you would need to find an in fixture dimmer module or use a smart bulb for the light. You would have to wire the fixture always hot, and replace the switch with something that doesn't relay on polling. A switch like the ZEN30 could work, wired with no load. It has a dimmer and a button on it, dimmer for the light and button for the fan. Would relay on the hub to work, no direct control of the fixture if the hub was down for some reason.
Just make sure the relay can handle the fan load. Many smart switches aren’t rated for exhaust fans.
I’m not thinking clearly lately. Thanks for the suggestions.
It just occurred to me that if I were to bypass a switch at the wall, would a relay be able to step down the power to the LED lights? Maybe use two smart relays within the fixture instead of just one?
The fixture is a bath light and fan combo. Two LED bulbs in it with an exhaust fan running to a single on/off (no dimming) smart switch.
Incidentally It’s on a smart switch simply because people (and visitors) are constantly leaving it on and I connected it to a motion detector to turn itself off after X minutes. Wish I could stick it on some sort of VOC/odor detector…
Looks like the Zooz Zen52 could do the trick, but the main issue is that they state to keep fan HP load under 1/4 HP. I don’t know the current load of my fan but it’s a small fan for a tiny powder room.
According to this: https://www.build.com/broan-678/s292750?uid=93613#overview
And this: How do I Determine Exhaust Fan Horsepower Based on Electrical Data? | HomeSteady
Your standard builder grade bath fan is around 1/4 hp.
Also, I am thinking you may like it better to have smart bulbs, so you can dim them down. You could do that with a single relay, wire the lights part hot and put in smart bulbs. Control the bulbs from actions on a switch wired with no load.
If you are worried that your fan is too much of a load, look at the ZEN51. It is a single relay rated for 10A, or 1/2 HP.
Zooz ZEN51
I just installed one for bathroom heater 2 weeks ago. Have yet to set up a routine for it. Thought I might modify one of the routines developed for bathroom lighting or humidity control.
Oh.. A thought on your wiring:
Remove the smart switch and bypass it sending constant power to the ceiling box. Use either the Zooz double relay or two of the single relays to operate the fan and lights. On/Off for each, no dimming. Use a, or two, Zooz ZEN 34 or a Pico type wireless switch on the wall to operate your fan and light.