Need 4 switch hookup for 1 light

My X-10 system could no longer be maintained, so I just ordered a C-8 Pro. It will be here in 2 days. I need to replace all of my X-10 hardware.

I can't figure out what hardware to order for a circuit that has 4 switches and one set of lights.

  1. I don't need a dimmer or anything other than simple on/off.
  2. All 3 of the slave boxes have Red/Black/White wires.
  3. I want all switches to look like Decora.
  4. I prefer not to spend a lot of money on the slave units, but I will spend whatever I have to to solve this problem.
  5. I have no experience with any modern equipment, so the setup/install needs to be relatively easy.

I would appreciate it if someone could tell me what hardware I should order that fits my requirements.

Welcome to the community!

Have a look HERE join the owners group and post some pics of the wiring you're dealing with.

Sounds like GE/Jasco/Ultra-Pro may work for you.
Are you leaning toward Z-Wave, ZigBee or some other protocol?

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1 leviton ZW15S z-wave switch $50 and 3 Leviton DD0SR $21 ea. Works with or without a hub. Assuming your wired for traditional wiring and would be replacing two 3 ways at each end and 2 4 ways in the middle. Could get existing wiring to work but not connected in the traditional sense so you may need an electrician. Leviton uses z-wave 700 chipset not 800 as the product name implies. Does not support long range. Does support S2 security and Smart Start. Only the switch participates in z-wave. The remotes do not. I have several of those switches and the dimmer versions configured as 3 ways but no 4 ways. There are other brand devices I have read work too but I have no experience with them.

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Should be able to use a Zooz76 or a few other Zooz switches and be able to get by with only replacing the one 3 way where the line voltage hits.

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Leviton, three companions and one primary. Z-wave. Decora Digital/Decora Smart Coordinating Switch Remote, DD0SR-1Z – Leviton

If you want to go down a rabbit hole, Lutron would work with using a Caseta Switch and either Picos or their Companion Switch. Granted, this would cause you to need to also buy the Pro Hub from Lutron. So, it’s definitely an investment.

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I had a few three switch circuits, so like your 4 switch, but I only had one 4-way in the middle of the three ways.

In a four switch circuit, three of the switches can just become their own 3 switch circuit, by removing one of the four ways in the middle.

How you do things all depends on what box the line comes into and what box the wiring to the lights come into. In mine, the same box has line and the light coming in, so a smart switch by itself there would control the lights, with the other switches in the four way circuit disconnected.

This is what I have:

I bought the Zwave dimmer switches that have the "traveler" terminal. What that terminal does is detect if a circuit is opened or closed, and flip the switch when it detects a flip of the circuit, much like a Shelly or other relay switch does, when the switch wired to it is flipped.

So, I used the traveler terminal on the main Zwave switch, with the remaining two switches in the circuit wired to be a three way circuit instead, just to flip the traveler terminal. I had to remove my four-way in the middle, replace it with a three-way, and then put a standard 2 way switch on the end of the circuit.

You may have something like this:

Or, you could have the line coming in at the ceiling light fixture, even. (older builds)

The main thing is, you have options, but with each you need to understand your wiring first. The switches I used with travelers have been Ministon, but they don't seem to make the in-wall Zwave Decora switches/dimmers anymore. Eva Logix worked this way, but those also crashed my network so I had to replace them.

GE/Jasco use companion switches, so that is a whole other option, where there is wireless signals between the switches. Their traveler is not a dry contact traveler like I'm talking about.

Then there are the true 3-way smart switches, that can be drop-in to act like a standard 3-way, depending on how your circuit is wired.

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Wow! You guys are great. Thanks for all the input.

I wanted ZigBee, but everything I found seems to have been discontinued. Now, I'll take anything I can get that doesn't require an additional hub.

I forgot one more condition:
6. No batteries involved.

I was looking at the Leviton ZigBee as a solution, but found out they were no longer available. The Leviton ZW15S/DD0SR seems to be a solution that fits my needs if it is plug-and-play with the Hubitat.

  1. Can you confirm that it is plug-and-play with the Hubitat?
  2. I see that there are two different slave units. DD0SR-DLZ and DD0SR-1RM. I can't figure out what the difference is.

There isn't anything an electrician can do that I can't.

Thanks again for all the help.

Ken

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Pull permits? (ducks)

Q: What’s the difference between God and an electrician?

A: God doesn’t think he’s an electrician.

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I just found the Leviton DZ15S-R52 which seems similar to the ZW15S-1RW, but not the same. Can anyone explain the difference, and if either/both will work for me?

I live in Massachusetts which likely has the strangest rules in the country.

Home owners are allowed to do their own electrical work. However, every town gets to make their own rules on permits for work done by homeowners. Some towns insist on the home owner getting a permit. Other towns refuse to issue a permit to a home owner. Still other towns say you have to get approval from the Wiring Inspector (not a permit). Electricians and home owners generally don't bother getting permits for simple wiring changes.

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Sure. Just having a little fun on the holiday.

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Did you look at Inovelli blue series? Has the "decora" aspect...I think

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It's kind of a niche solution, but there are modules that can be added to existing circuits.

e.g. Shelly 1 Gen4 or SONOFF ZBMINI etc..

I’m also a big fan of Inovelli’s switches & dimmers. They have Zigbee and Z-Wave, and they are the option with the most features.

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DZ is older chipset and no longer in production.

If by plug and play you mean that you can include them into hubitat and there is a driver for it what works then yes. Like any other supported z-wave device.

what you do with the wiring is install the switch in the line side box then use one of the travelers to carry the switching through to the load. The switch and each remote device needs an unswitched line (power) and neutral. The other traveler is used for the remotes to signal the switch to turn off or on. That part works without a hub. Of course any automation you want that switch to take part of needs the hub.

I am a fan as well; but, this is a very simple requirement. Inovelli and Zooz can both work but are far more complicated and expensive to implement.

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I like Inovelli. I had a handful of the red 500 series bc the light bar was awesome for indications. But the zwave performance was very poor compared to zen2x series and can’t compare to the zen7x (700) series.

And Inovelli’s drivers suck.

Of course Jeff has helped zooz out considerably with the drivers but right now you can get the zen7x (800LR) stuff for less than $25 a switch on their Black Friday sale.

My new house is 100% zooz for zwave. Well except for my Alfred locks.

Thanks everyone for helping me get started on my re-automation project.

I'm still afraid that something will go wrong, so I choose to order all components from Amazon where I get free returns and a 5% discount on everything. Inovelli was not available on Amazon, so I discounted it for my first try. I looked at Zooz, but couldn't follow the documentation well enough to understand what pieces I needed and how it would be wired.

I ordered a Leviton ZW15S-1RW and three DD0SR-1RM. I'm 95% sure that this is the right solution for my needs. I will know in a few days. My Hubitat comes today and I can start my journey.

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I just saw this and it looks like I might be late to the party. I have a 4 way circuit for my outside flood lights. The easiest and cheapest way to do this is with a Zooz Zen 76. You can leave all the other dumb switches as they are. You just need to install the 76 in the box with the hot coming in from the breaker box. All the other switches will work the same using the Zooz Driver.

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