I think something is wrong in my Zigbee network (again). I supect there is a repeater that is misbehaving - but let me give some specifics.
I have a Kwikset 914 Zigbee lock (5 of them, actually) and this lock randomly stops working - cannot lock/unlock from web device. Manually locking/unlocking does NOT show correct status. Basically useless.
I fought this for months now - I found that factory reset, zigbee reset, and using "double luck" joining method with my C8Pro hub inches away - will get it joined and working. In fact, as long as the hub sits nearby - it will continue to work. And for a short time after putting my C8 hub back where it normally lives - the lock will respond correctly. But by the next morning - nothing.
Also of note, if I leave the hub where it normally sits and try to join the lock - none of the 3 join methods will work. The device gets discovered, claims it is initializing, but at end of join cycle there is no device.
Take it a step further - the lock was behaving poorly and factory reset steps were not working - after reset lock still had codes and should have been wiped. I t/s this for a couple days and even called Kwikset - but of course while they were on the phone it reset normally and with the hub nearby it connected normally. Then overnight - with hub back in its normal place - it failed again. I thought with these symptoms there might be something actually wrong with the lock - so I bought a brand new one and installed it yesterday.
So, brand new lock, fresh batteries, could not join with hub in normal spot - had to bring it close and to rebuild zigbee network - then it joined "normally". I put the hub back and it was working - I could lock/unlock, manage codes, and see status change if I manually locked/unlocked. Worked for a few hours - but by bedtime I could not lock it.
I have a TON of mains-powered Zigbee switches and outlets - including one about a foot from the lock and others in the garage where the lock is.
I want to focus on this lock first - but I do have similar issues with a few switches and outlets in my shed - which is diagonally the farthest point from my Zigbee hub. Similar behaviors - sometimes I can get them to join "normally" but other times I have to take the hub out next to them and do the double luck process. These usually behave correctly for weeks to months after a rejoin.
Have you tried using Advanced Zigbee Pairing in the community Zigbee Map app to force the lock to pair with the repeater that is located between you and your lock? It's a pretty straightforward process. I did it with my luck to force it to use the closest repeater.
If you go to Settings, Zigbee Details, are there any devices that have excessive messages compared to others, if you sort the last column?
Have you tried shutting the hub down and unplugging it for 30 minutes to put your Zigbee devices into "panic mode" so that they might do a mesh repair?
We have the alternative pairing modes - with my hub in normal place none of the 3 methods will finish - they often see a new device - initializing - but it never finishes - not even in the clear.
Interesting - the Neighbors Map shows all my devices. The lock in question top right - outside garage pedestrian door lock. Shows connection to garage light and the light shows connected to hub - i think.
Is there a specific reason you chose ch 26? I know it's an attractive choice due to fewer chances of interference, but it has its own unique concerns to be aware of (you can google for more info).
Ch 25 is a popular choice instead (if it's clear in your environment - it may well be that 26 is indeed the best option for you)
I'd also consider going down to power = 8 (or even 4, since you have a robust mesh of mains-powered devices). 16 is a lot of noise from the radio, and that can have adverse effects on the mesh.
Although it sounds unintuitive at first blush, lowering the radio power can (perhaps / hopefully!) be a big help.
Hey Chris, thanks. I changed to 26 last year because someone suggested 26 / 16 and it is away from my wifi channels.
I'll give it a try on 25 / 4 tonight. My biggest concern with lower power is contact sensor in my cluster mailbox - it isn't far from the hub - direct line of sight even, but being inside an aluminum box makes it tough.
Now should I panic before, after, or at same time i change channels?
Lowering the radio power puts the heavy lifting on the mesh (mains-powered repeaters) instead of trying to have the radio carry ALL that water, so as long as you have a decent-looking path of repeaters between the radio and that ctc sensor, it should be A-OK.
I realize it's frustrating when folks tell you "try this!...", but it can simply end up being a maddening game of trial-&-error to get things working in your unique environment no matter what...
I am pretty darn confident that my recommendation to lower your radio power (to 4 or 8, if 4 seems a bit too scary of a jump) will be helpful for you.
My recommendation to try ch 25 may or may not be a good steer - much of that depends on your own RF environment. But if it's open in your environment, I'd give it a go.
EDIT - I guess I'd suggest doing the panic after resetting the radio power and channel (or whichever one you're changing if not both)
Edit 2 -- here's a cool graphic Krassimir came up with to show the radio-power thing...
I agree with the lower power, and either channel 25, or even 15. Some devices don't support and won't pair with 26. I think there is another Zigbee channel, maybe 11 or 13 that isn't well supported either.
Be sure your 2.4 Wifi is on 20Mhz as well, 40Mhz can step on the Zigbee bands.
Another good catch. I switched my mesh wifi to Deco and it had 2.4 at 40 (auto) - i just changed that to 20 (fixed). Also before someone asks - 2.4 channel on wifi is 4 (auto) - so that is a long way away from 26 (now i've switched to 25).
This one miss - and its timing ARE suspicious as i did not have problems with that lock until more recently - definitely after switch to Deco.
Lots of good advice here. You might want to consider setting that to fixed now. It could change at any time and end up in the middle of your new zigbee channel.
In a mesh WiFi system, your access points could be stepping on each other, so to speak. To avoid that, many people stick with WiFi channels 1, 6 and 11.
