So, My linear z-wave garage door controller has been working fine for some time. No issues migrating from ST to HE. Without warning, it stopped responding last week. I tried exclude and include again, tried resetting the linear module, took wires out and replaced, moved hub into garage to test. HE recognizes if door is up/down, so the tilt is working fine. Also, the unit seems to respond with beeping (like it always did), but it doesn't move the door. Any thoughts? I'm out of ideas.
I would try a continuity tester across the wires and activate the door. If it were me, I would try disconnecting the push-button and test as close to the controller as I could get, even to the point of cutting the wires close to the controller for the test. Eliminating the wires to the button isolates the test to the controller. If you get continuity after the beep-beep from the controller I would say it is working. Suspect the wiring at that point.
1 Like
So, first thought . . . . Why would the wires spontaneously stop working? Nothing has chewed through them and I don't see any corrosion. In any event, I am gonna give it a try. I have a volt meter . . . Are you suggesting I activate the linear module via HE while testing continuity across the 2 wires?
I like to get this as basic as possible when I test. By cutting the wires close to the controller, you eliminate the possibility that there is a break in the wire that might not be visible. I am suggesting that you use a continuity tester. There isn't any voltage on those wires. The controller basically closes a switch. The "switch" would only be momentary so a continuity tester should show a flash or beep. Many voltage testers also have continuity.
Yes activate it through HE
1 Like
My volt meter has the ability to do a continuity test.
I tested the continuity from each end of the wire (after I removed the linear device cover to expose the wire terminals on the main board). No issues across the wire. I tried attaching end of the meter tips to each wire and test for continuity when I activated the door via HE . . . . Nothing. So, the wires themselves seem to be fine and the device is beeping when I activate via HE, however, there doesn't seem to be a signal to the wires from the device when activated by HE.
The way the Linear works is a relay 'shorts' the two wires. BUT it also has circuitry "listening" to those wires and if it hears digital signals, it refuses to operate the relay. While the cover is off on the Linear, take a flat bladed screwdriver (or equiv) and short the two wires. (It goes without saying, Don't Short Anything Else, right? 
) It's low voltage (24v) but yea, there might be a tiny spark.. don't freak.. 
If the door goes up or down, then your wires are just fine. A so called "smart wall button" is exactly what the Linear is trying to avoid affecting.
With the cover off can you /did you test where the wires attach to the PCB?
Just reaching . . . I don't know if there might be something akin to a fuse to protect the device in case of voltage being applied to the wires????
Might be worth a call to Linear support.
1 Like
What do you mean by "test where the wires attach to the PCB?"
I tested continuity of the wires where the wires attach at the pcb and where the wire ends would attach to my garage door control unit
Do your continuity test when operating the door via HE directly at the point where the wires attach to the PCB.
If it wasn't so cold I would pull the cover off my unit to see if I could see something to help. At this point I have no suggestions.
1 Like
Ah, gotcha. OK Thanks! I'll try again.
Check out this thread: Linear Garage Door Opener Stopped Working. Apparently the Linear openers monitor the LED and beeper for operation. If one of them fail, the opener won't work. Someone figured out the LED fails and disables the opener. Mine has also stopped, I purchased a new LED from Digikey but have yet tried to swap it out (to damn cold here in Michigan). This may be your problem as well (hoping it fixes mine). -Joel
Edit: I glanced at that thread again, looks like the openers in that thread still beep but no flashing LED(?)....
1 Like
Yes! That makes sense. It stopped flashing. I noticed that too. Before, when I used HE to open the garage, I could see the led flashing through the garage window. It beeps, but no flash. So, I think you're on to something. Wtf is that all about? Why the hell would that be tied together?
Ok, just read that whole thread. Definitely what's going on. Sounds like I've got a new project to work on. Buying some 10 ohm resistors now and gonna try to solder 3 of them in series to replace the led that seems to have failed. Looks like lots of people had success with this. I've never done anything like this, but seems easy enough. Worst case scenario... I break a broken device 
Thanks for the link and I appreciate everyone's input.
1 Like
I think I read somewhere that for the opener to be certified you need the beep and flashing light. But then again, I have no experience with others, not sure if they operate the same. Looks to be some sort of failsafe for the manufacturer. . .
This is the link to the LED people are using. -Joel
Typo? 3 in parallel, right? To get 3.33 ohms. (Series would get you 30 ohms, very far from what that thread recommends. )
Lol, yes. 3 parallel.... On top of each other (not side by side) = 3.33 ohms.
Let's hope I can keep it together for this project
I can't remember what I was doing but I couldn't hear the beeps but did notice the flashing lights. Saved something as I recall. It doesn't look to be too difficult to replace the LED. My opener is a little more than 2 years old so I guess I should expect issues soon.
Good luck on your repairs.
Mine is exactly 26 mos old. 2 yrs appears to be a longer then expected longevity. In fact, most people made it 13 mos according to This thread @joelspc linked above. I'll report back next week after my attempt. Thanks again!
