I have a switch that is currently connected to one side of a switched outlet. I want to connect two lamps to this outlet (with a power strip) and use a z-wave/zigbee dimmer switch to control it. I've read that I should NOT connect a dimmer switch to a switched outlet, so I thought I could disconnect the outlet from the switch and use the switch as purely a smart switch to control the bulbs in the lamps.
Does this make sense, or would there be another way to do this?
Thanks
So the switch that controls the outlet is a smart switch? If so what kind is it? Some of the newer ones have the ability to disable manual control.
If you had one of those you could then use smart bulbs in the lamps and control them via the switch. Could even get fancy and use the "button" features to turn the lamps on/off individually.
this does make sense and can work, but make sure you have any wires in the box properly terminated as it could be a fire risk (and also against electrical code to have exposed wires)
If they could swap out the switch with a new smart one then no additional rewiring would be required. Still have to be careful though.
Both Inovelli (Disable Internal Relay) and Zooz (Disable Manual Control) have this capability on their dimmers/switches.
Could leave it on the switched outlet and just put a switch cover over the switch to make sure it stays on...
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Decora-Switch-Protector-Residential-HotTub/dp/B07BGV8S88
Thanks everyone. I didn't know you could disable the manual option on certain switches. That's good to know. As far as brands, I was looking at Inovelli and Zooz. I haven't gotten inside the box yet, but the way I see it, is I'll just bypass the switch down to the outlet and have a jumper come out to power the actual switch. @JasonJoel I will need the switch there to do the actual control of the lights.
Ah! I see what you are doing now. 
The only type of smart switch I would attempt the above with is one that utilizes a dry contact relay output. Without knowing what type of future load might one day be plugged into that outlet, I would be very wary of passing current through any type of dimmer device, as they are only rated for specific 'lighting loads', not things like vacuum cleaners, power supplies, etc...
Since the only safe smart in-wall device would be a "Switch" (with dry relay contacts), not a dimmer, I don't see the advantage of passing the load through the smart switch...since it is dimming that the user is really after.
Thus, I would simply hardwire the outlet to always be hot, and use either a smart dimmer or a button controller to control the smart bulbs.
@Jon.peake80 - have you looked at the Lutron Aurora device? It might make things very simple for this application, as it requires zero wiring as long as your existing manual switch is a toggle switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Aurora-Dimmer-Philips-Z3-1BRL-WH-L0/dp/B07RJ14FBS
If you use a Philips Hue bridge, to integrate the smart bulbs, then the Aurora can be directly paired via the Hue bridge.
connected to one side of a switched outlet
I'm assuming you mean 1/2 of the outlet? If so I would removed the switched wire from the receptacle, terminate it (perhaps some tape with a indication of what it was).
Note: wire nuts don't stay secure on a single wire. If you use a wire nut you should tape it to the wire with electrical tape.
Then you could jump the two halves of the receptacle together, but I would just buy a new receptacle (< $2) and put the new on in. It will still have the build in jumpers for top to bottom halves.
John
Ahh good point.. really not a good idea thanks for bringing that up. I should have known better of course as it happened to my client.
Electrician installed a smart switch for an exterior light that also happened to control an exterior outlet and did not bring this fact up to anyone (he hates all things smart except Lutron). Some carpenters and various other subs kept plugging in their heavy power draw devices like saws, compressors and what not into it. Several blown switches later.... good thing there was no fire.
That's a pretty cool solution and it might work out! Its a paddle right now, but could easily be switched to a toggle. What you're talking about is pretty much exactly what I was thinking. I had to come on here to make sure that a) there wasn't a better way of doing it and b) I wasn't overlooking something simple that would cause issues down the road.
Thanks!
Correct. 1/2 switched. I have extras, so I'll probably just swap it out with one that doesn't have the tab broken.
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