I didn't realize that was their official site. I follow them on twitter. My neighbour was looking for new switches. I just sent him the link. We may have to do a combine order to Canada together... probably about 30 switches.
I’ve had a few of the zooz motion sensors for a year or so. Love em. Had a 4 way switch I wanted to wired up. Got the zooz Zen26 because you can use “dumb” switches with it. As I previously stated, zoom customer service has been nothing awesome. I’m a zooz fan for life. They also told me they are developing a switch that is able to call scenes (similar to ge double tap feature) and will notify me when available. When those come out I see myself replacing a lot of my GE switches with zooz.
O-oh. I just replaced a Zen22 with a Zen27 for my kitchen under counter LED pucks. Now they do not turn off all the way. I will contact Zooz for support
Originally I had a GE switch here but it doesn’t support double tap to go full on so I switched it to the Zen22. Then I was getting flicker at 20% on due to the triac’s. My Leviton switch that I had for my porch lights started to act up so I thought it’s a great excuse to move the Zen22 there and use a new Zen27 for the kitchen.
They don’t blink any more at low levels but yeah, they don’t turn off either.
Yes they are properly wired with a neutral and a ground.
I have found that lights that do not turn off completely with the Zooz switches are the LED light(s) themselves. Some lights do not like a residual amount of power going through it all the time. I had a closet light that did that and I replaced the light and voila, completely off.
Yup. I knew this was a risk moving to the FET based variant of the dimmer. About a month ago I just swapped the seven under cabinet lights from the 120v/20w halogen pucks to these 120v/3.3w lights from www.illumeledlighting.com. Home Depot carries them. So I don’t want to changed the lights.
I want to make sure I have the latest FW in the switch. Beyond that, my options are to live with it or possible a shunt resistor to bleed off the residual voltage. I have not done any voltage measurements yet and outside work is on the honeydo list for today.
It could be the wiring instead of the switch or the bulbs. The more expensive bulbs run a resistor and a diode over the neutral and the live wire to make sure they won't light up when a low current runs. A lot of led lights don't and therefore light up. The reason why some switches won't do this and some do is because they not only cutoff the live wire but also the neutral wire. But with the right combination of bulb and a switch which only cuts the live wire you get a conduction power between the wires in your wall and ceiling which is just enough to make those bulbs light up a little. So the best solution is to use a switch which cutoff both wires.
I just installed a few ZEN27's and having the light glow issue. I was able to resolve one location by swapping out an ecosmart for a feit candelabra bulb but the other two locations are ceiling fans with built in LED.