Yeah, I forgot that UK is different. In US this is a 240 outlet
Left hot, right hot, top ground, bottom L neutral
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I've seen some people use a door open/close sensor. Put the sensor on the panel and a small magnet on the dial. When the magnet gets around to the right spot, the sensor closes and your rule does stuff. You could even use multiple magnets if you use different cycles.
After that, maybe sticking the sensor on the outside of the drum, but that would require getting to it relatively easily. It could be insulated from the heat with a little block of something, though now that I'm typing this out it sounds like a tad like a fire hazard.
I've suggested some sort of notification sensor here and no one is interested so I haven't done this. Our 40-year-old dryer buzzes like the clock at the end of a basketball game. I'd rather it just ping my phone.
I put an Amazon Echo that I had in my junk box (how many almost free ones did I think I need?) into my laundry room and created an Alexa routine to flip a virtual switch when she hears an appliance beeping.
At first it wasn't perfect because she would hear the microwave oven or range in far reaches of the house. But after putting in a test to make sure the washer had completed recently, the false notifications have virtually disappeared. Supposedly, Alexa will be able to identify specific sounds sometime this year.
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Did you ever figure out where it fell out of your bicycle from? It looks important to me....
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That thing is about 25 pounds. The ride from the abandoned rail yard to my home was about 5 miles. And I rode uphill both ways 
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Wow good idea thanks but not for other issues
When it comes out.. .i have beeping for water leak or dog fence wire broken. I.do.already have sensors for this but it never hurts to have a backup.
For my 240v power dryer, I use a z00z temperature/humidity sensor taped to the side of the dryer and motion sensor in the room that also reads the temperature but for entire laundry room. I also have a contact sensor on the door. My requirements are little different. I want to be reminded when the dryer has clothes inside not necessarily the moment it completes. I have a couple of Fire-Tablets acting as displays in my house that shows the status of the laundry and dryer (on/clothes inside). When I start my dryer the side of my machine begins to quickly get warm. When the sensor on the side of the dryer is 4-degrees warmer than the temperature of motion sensor (the temperature of the room) I have a rule that turns on a virtual switch that indicates the dryer is on. It takes my dryer normally 2 to 4 minutes (depending on how much clothes is in the dryer) to be on before the virtual switch is triggered. I use the contact sensor with a rule to determine if the dryer is off and clothes are out of the machine. This has worked perfectly for me now.
I wonder now, what if I did the opposite to notify hubitat the dryer is completed? ... if I create a rule that stores the highest temperature reading during the on-cycle in a variable then continue comparing that to the current temperature of the dryer (the z00z sensor on the side of the dryer)... if the current temperature (from the z00z sensor) drops by 1 or 2 degrees of the highest temperature reading when turned on, that would be the indicator that the dryer has completed. I think that would work but it really depends how long the dryer takes to cool down 1 or 2 degrees...I'm not sure. When I have time maybe I'll look to modify my rule to do that. Though I need to see how long it does take the dryer to cool down by 1 or 2 degrees.
I use the method outlined in this thread. Of all the methods I've used over the years this has been the easiest and most reliable. (vibration sensor batteries drain due to constant vibration, temperature sensors have a delay, contact sensors are ugly). This method triggers open/close on contact sensor as soon as my dryer starts and stops and is extremely reliable and hidden in the back. Installation was super easy. Took off hte back panel, put it around one of the legs of the power and put the panel back on.
This method can also be used to monitor status of other devices if needed.
I mentioned the parts I'm using in the last post.
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i use the aeon power meter with the dryer app and once confiured correctly for me it has been 100% reliable for years.
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I just sold the last of mine.... Actually really happy with the iotawatt. (simply because I don't have to run multiple units as well as I can graph and output to influx_db if I want to.
ya i looked at it and decided i dont need those features and mine is working and i dont really want to open ujp the box and disconnect and reconnect clamps to my hot mains. if i can help it.
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I am not ever doing anything like this, never never never. Death does not become me.
Also using the HEM energy monitor and it works perfectly.
I am glad this is working for you too. I have been using this method for a while now and it works great every time. It is hidden and triggers every time 100% because the relay closes when power flows through the coil. So it can sense power on really any appliance that is running.
As @gavincampbell has done he used the external plugs on a contact sensor to close. Then the solution is truly wireless. I used the relay method, but really anyway to monitor the relay's status is all you need to do. You don't have to modify your dryer at all it is just pop it on the wire and set the sensitivity and you are good.
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The clamps are inductive so nothing needs to be disconnected. I fabricated some cardboard shields to temporarily cover the main wires feeding the panel. Kept one hand in my pocket. Closing the clamps with one hand wasn’t difficult.
Then again, there is my dear departed father in law. He wanted to replace his fused entrance panel with a breaker panel but didn’t want to call the power company to pull the meter. He said a big ball of fire shot out. Blew the transformer and knocked out power to the shopping center. This was before I met my wife.
As long as you don't touch the buzz bars at the back you're fine. You can even throw the breaker on the line you are clamping so it's not energized.
I like that terminology better than bus bars.
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I've buzzed myself a couple of times over the years.. Hence the term lol
They hook up exactly the same
Not if your putting clamps on the mains. If i replace aeon devices i would need to redo the mains and there is not cutoff for that.
No but they clamp on like any other clamp. As long as you don't touch the bar it's fine.
