I have been searching for the correct smart-switch solution for a few years. I keep running into the same issue. I have exclusively deployed smart bulbs, making the existence of any switch that turns them off a problem unless I need to reset my bulbs.
I currently use the ugly as heck Sylvania buttons to cover the switch and to provide the functions I need.
I'd like an in-wall switch (of any kind, really) that only physically turns off the circuit when I want it to (imagine an app that runs the reset sequence for the bulbs attached), with HE or physically, but every other time is more like a smart button.
I can understand your reasoning, but I have to say my favorite thing about using smart bulbs is using Circadian Daylight. I work from home and having the inside light match the outside light is amazing. Don't think I could go back to a single color bulb. That is partly due to the fact I have over 100 color temp smart bulbs now.
I also have smart bulbs and have 2 ways that they are controlled 1st I have fibaro dimmer 2's in the bedroom's controlling switchable white dimmable downlights. These have a second input which though the built in scenes capability you can use to control your smart lamps ( i have one in the centre of the rooms). The 2nd way is using the fibaro UBS behind the switch (needs a 9-24v DC supply), these then connect to a normal switch and using it you can set rules to turn on/ off the light. using this method means you can use whatever normal or retractive switches you wish.
I have those behind the switch Aeotec Micro switches - they work great - have been running with them for at least 4 years. Have not tried the new Nanos yet. For the switch replacements I will say the paddle switches "look" fits in better with normal decora ones than the toggle ones do. I just put in a bunch of Zooz's toggles upstairs. They work okay but the on/off action is weird if you are used to a switch remaining up or down not centered. Logically though a centered switch makes sense - Up is always on and Down is always off..regardless of how many you have (3-way/4-way etc). I think we will get used to them though.
I would like to make a point here about Smart Switches.
Let me preface by saying that I do a lot of "inclusion" and "exclusion" - a lot of installations.
I LOVE LEVITON SWITCHES! (Please excuse the volume!)
WHY?
Because when I'm doing exclusion and exclusion, I'm doing something on the switch itself, so I'm looking at the switch.
When I'm looking at Leviton switches, I can see on the switch itself, if the inclusion or exclusion is successful! (The LED starts blinking green = successful, red blinking = not successful).
I HATE XXXX SWITCHES! (name redacted to protect the vendor - they're good people.)
WHY?
Because in order to include/exclude, I have to tap up or down 6 times in 2 seconds!
Furthermore, if I tap 8 times and not 6 times, it renders the switch unresponsive!
No confirmation on the switch if inclusion/exclusion has been successful!
Please excuse my rant... I've got it out of my system now!
I guess it depends if you are using paddle or toggle style. My experience with Zooz brand toggles has been great. 2 Down clicks for exclusion, 6 for inclusion. Didn't seem to have trouble getting into a rhythm and I just paired/reset hub/excluded/paired 15 or so twice in the last 2 days. I agree though an LED indicator would have been helpful and I really like the decora leviton stuff but can't use it in our older house (WAF). I have to say I'm pleased so far but we will see over time if that holds true.
My big issue is since there is no real standard if you have a mixture of switches/devices it becomes confusing and frustrating when it comes time to exclude and pair a bunch at a time. The Aeotec Z-Wave stick has been wonderful for exclusions after a hub reset - button glows blue if successful.
Note: you have to take care with excluding. Make sure it's removed properly from your hub first OR you've done a reset otherwise you might get ghost devices that bog down your system!!!!
This is exactly why I stuck with the Leviton's only to keep everything uniform. I only have 1 GE dimmer and that was because the remote dimmer for the GE does not require a line connection, only neutral and travler. Did not have enough wires for the Leviton. Otherwise I am fully Leviton dimmers.
I use smart bulbs for just lamps. Most of the house has recessed lights anyways.
that’s crazy
