I definitely do. PETG in general doesn't like to be squished to the bed as much as PLA. So sometimes I have to raise the z offset a little bit when printing with PETG.
Everything is hotter/cooler in Texas. 
Good to know, thanks.
This is also good to know...do not print something w/screw threads in horizontal orientation leaving the threads suspended in mid-air w/no support...DOH. This is why I should not start a new print job after 11 pm...
Luckily (amazingly) came out OK and after a littlt trimming is usable, screws right in to the other piece:
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Printing that with supports enabled would work although you would need to do a bit of work to remove the supports and clean up the threads.
Yup, and it's stronger printed horizontally than vertically for it's intended use (handle extension for an ice scraper). So I think that's the orientation it should be printed in, I just totally forgot to enable supports. I was happy how well the printer handled the situation.
Related question I've been meaning to ask - has anyone ever actually broken something they've printed? Everything I've printed (all PLA so far, .2mm) seems so tough that it feels like it would be very difficult to break any of it.
Not that I've printed, but I do have some 3D printed feet I picked up for my kids desktop computer. All four of them sheared where a layer separated.
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And you did tell the kids not to sit on the computer, right?
BTW, you're killing it w/SensorGroups+ , dude!
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I think if he just sat on it, they'd have been fine 
. It's a Meshlicious case that he hauls back and forth from his mom's to here. I'm pretty sure it's from him sitting it down at an angle. Interesting...I super glued each one back together and no problems since.
Appreciate it...I've honestly been putting off anything with it as I've really been focused on my energy cost calc app. Not without benefit though as I've been able to put some lessons learned (like simple text formatting) to use to make SG+ look better.
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Yeah, I printed a carbon pellet filter (vertical tower) with supports using Cura. The supports would not come out and I broke the tower while trying to scrape out the supports. It was Overture pla at 190/60 and I suspect it was a bit too cool, which caused layers to have very slight striations & that may have added to the brittleness.
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I have broken parts. The original Hubitat Hub Holder that a friend printed for me before I got my printer had the tabs on all 4 sides. Those were easy to break off. I printed a different design that was stronger.
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What setting are you guys using for perimeters...
Asking because I noticed when I opened the same .stl file for a print in both PrusaSlicer and SuperSlicer, that SuperSlicer defaulted to 2 for Generic PLA...
...while PrusaSlicer's default setting on Generic PLA is 3.
Reason I ask is I see about a 10% improvement in print speed if I change Perimeters from 3 to 2 in PrusaSlicer. I know there is no free lunch...thoughts on why SuperSlicer defaults to 2, and PrusaSlicer to 3? SuperSlicer devs just taking a more aggressive approach?
The 2 perimeters seem to be adequate in my prints. I did do some flower pots with reservoirs. I ended up having to epoxy coat the reservoirs because they leaked. The layers were not quite tight enough to be totally waterproof.
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I'm going to set up the Sovol filament holder/dryer, and change to the PET-G filament that's arriving later today.
Never changed filament on the SV05 (or any printer, for that matter). It does have a "Change Filament" menu option on the printer. The manual info on the Change Filament option is:
- Click "Change filament" on the screen, wait for the filament withdraw out automatically, then load new filament.
@potts.mike - have you used the Change Filament menu option yet? If so, did it work as expected?
The Change Filament button on my printer defaults to 200C for heating. PET-G needs hotter temps. I preheat to 240 to change in that case.
Sorry - which printer do you have? I've lost track...
Elegoo Neptune X
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Thanks for the comments, I would not have thought about the pre-heats not being sufficient. I'll have to take a look at what the pre-heat goes to (assuming it's reported during the process) and see if I can use the automatic approach, vs. manual.
Will be interested in hearing how that goes..
Right now I just store things in large water tight plastic containers with two of these in there:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0XFCS
Which I regenerate periodically. Have a temp/humidity sensor in each tub too so I can make sure it is working.
But a purpose built dryer may be an easier way to go...
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Definitely easier for lazy people like me. It looks like a decent build, certainly not over-built but looks good enough. It does seem to only do C and doesn't appear to have an option to change to F. So I will be thinking in C to use it. 
The fan isn't noisy, but is a bit noisier than I'd like. It would be completely drowned out by the printer when in use.
A couple things that I didn't understand correctly, more due to my quick purchase decision than anything else:
- The lid should not be closed completely when the unit is running a drying cycle, so can't set it to dry and go away. Have to check back and close it when it's done.
- The unit doesn't track humidity and run a drying cycle when required. You use it to dry the filament and then close/lock the lid and can print from it via the two filament exits in the top of the lid. You do have to monitor/check the humidity periodically and run a drying cycle again.
So I was thinking this was a "set it and forget it" unit, but does make it easier to dry and print in place from the unit.
After you set your desired temperature (40 - 50C) and length of cycle (6-12h) and start it, the screen alternates between current temp/humidity and time left in cycle:
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I did, I think I just gently pulled one the filament until it came out.
