Just got my whole house changed over to some of the new UltraPro/Jasco/GE Dimmer switches that don't have the breakoff tabs. They say no minimum load but I feel like it's gotta be at least 20 watts. Using Halo HLBSL lights that draw about 12watts each. In our great room area, it appears that 5 different banks of those lights are on the same circuit, but with different switches. When I dim some bulbs, the other switches' bulbs will randomly start flashing and or get brighter and dimmer. Do I need to look into an Aeotec bypass for those 5 switches to try to alleviate the problem, or is there a different switch to look in to? I just got 20 switches rewired yesterday including a bunch of add on switches so I really don't want to get different switches...
Hard to say - different bulbs behave differently.
I run gen2 dimmers on as little as 7 watt LEDs with no issues (philips bulb). But then I had other places I ran gen2 with 50+ watts of LEDs and they flickered like heck when at 50% brightness (GE bulbs). My fix was to replace the bulbs with Philips, which for me never flicker regardless of load.
A bypass may work too - I just didn't go that route.
In our bedroom i have 4 HLBSL on one switch and they function perfectly. Its just the weird cross talk between dimmers that I can't get my brain wrapped around.
What is the part number of the GE/Jasco dimmer switch you are using? You say break off tabs but just wanted to double check the model number to know the exact model.
I don't know if this would help but I'll put it out there anyway. I have a five switch wallplate in my garage, where two of the circuits are for overhead lighting. I figured I always turn them both on at the same time, leds take lots less load, so why not consolidate and switch them both with one switch, so I did. I put an outlet to power a usb adapter in the freed up space.
Maybe you have a similar multi position switch plate and consolidating some if you don't need the separate function would help.
It almost sounds like they have a "dirty" or loose neutral wire or something? Bad or missing grounds? Maybe I would have to draw out the diagram, but I can't think of how else one dimmer should affect the other like this?
It's a brand new house with the electricians having installed them all....
You could maybe add this inline to the lights?
I have a setup where an Aeotec nano dimmer controls some of my deck lights. They are LED bulbs and only run at 20W max. I had an issue where they would not turn off all the way, which was noticeable at night (and used power when I didn't want them to). I added this and it behaved normally.
For $15 it might be worth a shot
How did you wire it with the dimmer? in parallel?
I just had an electrician install ~60 of these 2nd Gen Jasco's in a brand new home. Combination of HALO LT56 Can lights, chandeliers with screw in LEDs and LED strip lights with LED transformers. The Jasco's did not work with either the HALO Can's or the LED transformers. Flickered like crazy. It was a cluster fxxx trying to find other zwave dimmers that would work. Tried the Aeotech bypass thingamajig without success. Finally found two others that worked. The Homeseer HD-WD200+ worked for the Halo Cans but not the LED transformers. It was close to 2x the price of the Jasco. Had to use an Eaton dimmer (Lowe's carries them) for the LED Transformers. Took a ton of money and labor time to switch out. Kind of learned the hard way that not all dimmers handle LED's the same. Now have 3 seperate dimmers in the house but it works.
YMMV but feel free to ask any questions you may have because I have just been through the ringer, so to speak, on this same issue on a brand new home install
And that is exactly why I hate built-in led lights, and will pick a traditional can with replaceable bulbs ANY DAY.
The led bulb tech will continually change and improve. I would not want to be locked in to 10 year old led technology.
Like my example above... Had flickering issues with bulb A, swapped it out with bulb B - problem fixed for a small fraction of the price replacing switches would have cost.
Yeah it is in parallel with the lights. Not sure if you should run this in series. Might be worth contacting Aeotec support and asking if parallel doesn't work for you. They have a pretty good support system
Oh for sure. One of my biggest regrets with the build is doing the built in ones and not going for cans. It would have cost a little more but given a ton more flexibility.
In the a socialist state of CA regular cans in new construction is unfortunately not even an option.
LOL. That doesn't surprise me.