That's why I keep a bag of these around:
https://www.kinginnovation.com/products/20/3-port-alumiconn
Every time I open an electrical box in my house or install a Zwave switch, I end up having to cram a few of them in... properly torqued, of course.
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I also have a house wired with 12 gauge. It's not just the wire nuts that are a problem. It's getting the device back in the box. A switch with 5 (!) separate 12 gauge solid copper wires attached to doesn't move very easily.
Mike M
They do look robust. Do you feel they take less space than wire nuts?
Does your house have aluminum wire for the fixtures?
for me the side by side arrangement of the wires actually made more efficient use of space and made the wires easier to pack flat and left more room for the switch install.
I used the wago connectors. And when you by the next great thing, it's much easier to rewire, if needed
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My house was completely wired with aluminum wiring during its original construction (1973). Since then, there has been numerous additional circuits and branches installed, wired with copper. For any fixture I install on the original wiring, or any switch or outlet I change, I always put on a copper pigtail and one of the Alumicon connectors (they come with 2 or 3 terminals) for each lead. I have come across other junction boxes where electricians have twisted copper and aluminum wires together and covered it with a No-Al-Ox filled wire nut. This is a big no-no, and I replace those splices with Alumicons, which are also filled with No-Al-Ox. The screws must also be torqued a specific amount depending on if it's a copper or aluminum lead and what gauge it is. They are easier to get into the box than wire nuts, but I see them as a safety necessity, not a space saving device. I have some 2 gang boxes with multiple circuits and a switch that now have 3 or 4 conductor Alumicons PLUS wire nuts AND a Zwave switch. Some of the "licensed electrician" work I've seen in my house is amazing. Don't even get me started on how some of the younger guys think that the same gauge of wire is required for aluminum or copper circuits of the same amperage.
I feel for you. My house was built in 1972 but aluminum had not been allowed at that time (luckily).
I've seen some licensed electricians do scary things. I also get frustrated with electricians who think "meets NEC" is the end all guide. In my mind the NEC is the minimum, in addition a brain is required.
For instance:
The only plug in my garage is run the length of the house, through 3 receptacles (by through I mean in the push in terminals of the back of the receptacle and out the 2nd pair of push in's) then to the garage. Oh and they used #14 copper 
My small Sear air compressor won't start when in the garage.
As for the young guys, I was one of them when I was going to school. I wasn't an apprentice, just a kid who could run wires and make connections. I was pretty good and running wires and my connections were always to the screws with the wire tightly wrapped to the screw. However at one time I ran a #12 to an air-conditioned compressor. Per the nameplate a #12 should be plenty (in my logic). Anyway the boss came by and saw the what I had done, then told me to pull it and replace with #10.
Point being the younger folks are working under the license of a master electrician (by law). It is the master electrician who is responsible for the younger folk's work (and for teaching them).
While I'm on my soapbox, people should remember the issues with aluminum wiring when they reach for Sharkbite, or crimp connectors when making plumbing connections.
Those who forget the past are destined to repeat it.
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You can't forget what you never knew in the first place.
That's why there are old guys 
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Just got a box of the 221s in. They are a LOT smaller than the 222s. Thanks for the tip!
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