I really need help

i have bseed light switches and blink cameras also smart shower aqualisa and don't know how to connect anything to my Hubitat, can anyone help. I even got my electrician to come and help with no joy. I have tried to understand the difference between z-wave and zigbee and not sure if these smart devices are either. please help .....

There is a community integration for Blink cameras:

I just looked on the Hubitat Compatible Device list and didn't see any mention of BSEED or Aqualisa unfortunately:

Often devices that are Wifi rely on their manufacturer's website so are not able to be used fully local which is against Hubitat's model. Therefore, there are only a few Wifi devices that work and many that do use drivers/apps that were created by the community members through back doors.

I Googled and it looks like Home Assistant was able to work with the BSEED lights using their Tuya integration. There is a Hubitat Tuya Community Integration but I don't use it and know nothing about it. Hopefully, someone else can comment on that.

Somebody outside of the Hubitat community is working on using MQTT & Homebridge with the Aqualisa shower:

I know nothing about this other than reading the 1st few posts.

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We have Aqualisa showers.
With ours the only way to turn them on and off is via the button outside or inside of the shower cubicle. The smart part for mine is just to set the temperature. Mine are not zigbee, z-wave or wifi.
Are yours the same? I'm not sure what additional control you are looking for. Could you elaborate a bit more.
Cheers.

my shower can work on alexa but not sure how to connect to Hubitat.

thanks for your help, i purchased the lasted habitat c8 so i thought that would work?

I think Hubitat should do a better job on their website highlighting their compatibility list before a customer orders. You are not the 1st person to come to the community excited having purchased a Hubitat and list off all of the devices that he/she already purchased to find that few work with Hubitat.

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The easy workaround for devices that are Alexa cloud only devices is to trigger them via an Alexa routine. This thread and the example explain it. Once this virtual device is shared with Alexa, activation of the switch from Hubitat with trigger the virtual motion sensor or virtual contact sensor. This is what Alexa needs to trigger an Alexa Routine. It's not ideal, but when you're dealing with devices that are not supported locally via Hubitat, but can be triggered via speaking to Alexa, this is a simple option.

In regard to compatiblity, I mean no offense to anyone, but simply becuase a hub is the latest and is running the latest platform software for that particular hub, it no way implies that it's compatible with everything. One should always check documentation for compatibility for any smart home device, rather than assuming compatibility. While Hubitat has made the decision not to have a direct link to their compatible devices on the homepage, they do have a link to Documentation at the bottom of the homepage, and the Product page you arrive at right after clicking the "Buy Now" button. This then takes you to the documentation homepage where the Compatible Devices List is very easy to see on the left sidebar.


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I think you’re going to continue to struggle if you don’t spend some more time trying to learn about how smart home devices work.

For example, here’s an article that covers, in very basic terms, several wireless technologies that are used in smart homes:

Zigbee and z-wave are two of those protocols. WiFi is another.

As others have pointed out, it appears you have some WiFi connected devices, none of which have built-in compatibility with Hubitat (though it is possible to integrate with Blink cameras thanks to custom code created by a community developer).

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Bobbles, you possibly have the older version, same as me (Smart Q)? The newer models look identical but have Alexa support. Visibly the only difference is that the main unit (and optional 2 way diverter box) are purple not orange. I contacted Aqualisa some time ago thinking I could just switch out the main box but was told I'd have to replace everything (b***tards).

I was going to butcher the little remote button (not got around to it yet). I can solder across the button contact pads and connect it to a Fibaro Smart Implant output (I'd also pop a standard retractable switch in parallel so that could be used locally). I've had the remote open and it's just a case of picking off the small copper shorting plate to expose the solder pads.

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