The hub should have this model number. This site is usually the cheapest for them. IMO you will be very satisfied going with Lutron combined with Hubitat, for many of the reasons others just posted as well as the reliability.
Not sure why you would want to replace the Lutron switches they can be used with the pro bridge. Please keep in mind it’s a bridge not a hub. Its capabilities are minimal and nowhere even close to what Hubitat can do. The magic comes from the extremely capable brains of HE and their integration with the Lutron Caséta Smart Bridge Pro. It’s a tiny little box that weighs practically nothing and uses very little electricity. They run about $85-$100. So it’s almost like buying a second habitat hub, you can thank Lutron for that terrible price. But, it’s worth it. Unlike the Lutron connected bulb remotes, (which by the way if you have some, hang onto them. I have 6 and I still use them). The pico’s average about $10 but can do way more with Hubitat than Lutron connected bulb remote could do.
Checking out the compatible list....
Is it true that Hue lightstrips are working without the bridge?
And on that same topic, is that what everyone here typically uses for strip lighting or has there been a better more cost effective options hit the market lately?
One option is to use the Sengled LED Strip which can be directly paired to the HE hub (and will not, in fact, work with the Hue bridge.) Reports are that the Hue LED strips have better color and whites versus the Sengled, but at a higher price point. It really depends on your needs.
Personally, I only direct-pair Sengled bulbs/strips to my HE hub, as these are all non-repeater devices. Most other bulbs are not so reliable in the Zigbee HA1.2 repeating department.
If you already have a Hue bridge and bulbs, I would probably leave all of those devices paired to the Hue bridge, and simply use the Hubitat to Hue integration.
Maybe you're not too familiar with the Zigbee protocol and mesh networks. This is what @ogiewon is describing. By using Sengled devices, it illuminates a problem that can occur when Zigbee lights don't pass the signal to the next device correctly.
If you are going to use any bulb or LED strip other than Sengled (which don't repeat signal at all), then you're best to keep the lights on the Hue Bridge, or put all lights on a separate hub. The ways to do this vary. There are several. The Hue bridge can be directly controlled via the Hue Integration app. So even though the bulbs and strips would be on the Hue Bridge for example, they will react as fast as if they were connected to the Hubitat Elevation hub directly. The advantage though, is they are on their own separate Zigbee network on the Hue Bridge, and therefor cannot interfere with any Zigbee device on the HE hub.
I use these as well and the work well directly connected to HE. I use the Sengled bulbs too which connect directly.
I do have the Harmony hub and it does work with HE.
We have 1 of our Lutron Hybrid switches set to "Good morning" which turns on a few Lutron dimmers and turns the TV on FOX news ( wifes choice), at low volume.
My only gripe with HE is locks, if you have Schlage (even Yale) locks they may be an issue. @jwetzel1492 is updating his Reliable Locks app, which I am hopeful will make this a problem of the past. As of now they are the only devices not working 100% in HE since my transition from SmartThings. (they work just not reliably...yet).
Thank you for the reply! I dont have the Hue gear yet. I have been hesitant to pull the trigger on it, because I REALLY only want the light strip from HUE to create bias lighting for the TV in the living room.
Sengled looks like a worthy substitute. Can the 2 meter lengths be connected or can they only be extended by the 1 meter extension? I will need to trim a 65" tv and 3 meters, and potentially on route, 4 meters may be too short too.
I am not sure as I have never used the Sengled extensions. However, I did find the following on their website.
This is the coolest feature and I highly recommend it - totally worth it. You can stick a PICO absolutely anywhere and have it control just about everything. I have a PICO in my kitchen that controls my Sonos and as I'm cooking I can pause the music (if it's loud) to have Alexa/Google Home set a kitchen timer. I have another one in a hidden location that disables my Alarm - endless possibilities!
Next to our bed my wife can turn on "sleep mode" which turns on some alarms stuff, dims/turns off lights by setting our sleep scene, and she can also use it to turn a light back on/off/dim. It's magical.
Picos are very cool but for simplicity I like the smartthings single buttons.
For our master bedroom we have 2 wall sconces over the bed with smart bulbs. There are no light switches within reach so I've incorporated 2 buttons - one on each side table. One press toggles the designated sconce light, 2 presses toggles both. Very high on the WAF/SOAF.
Not saying I don't like the picos (I have a bunch) but once you get above 2 or so functions it can be a little unnerving to the uninitiated..
For sure! Don’t forget the wall plate adapter and a screw less cover for a seamless look!
Good point. We use 1 of these as well.
Very cool discussion, everyone! We to have ONE Pico currently, but it is used as a 2nd switch for our dining room (in what used to be a three-way situation) before we moved in. And they are currently just paired with Wink....
I too came from Wink with a heavy Lutron Caseta integration. The move to Hubitat has been wonderful.., Get a Lutron Pro hub and the Lutron devices run much better than they did with Wink. The devices available to Wink were very limited and the Hubitat world of devices is HUGE compared to Wink. The Local operation of the Hubitat hub is great too, no more cloud dependence. I only had a couple of devices that I could not bring over (Kidde Smoke detectors) but everything else ported well. The Schlage Locks don't behave as well as they did on Wink but otherwise.... Now I have 3 Hubitat hubs with hundreds of devices and for the most part, they all play well.
We do this, for our two bedside lamps: single push toggles your own lamp, doubletap toggles your partner's lamp, long hold does both (both off if either was on, both on if both were off).
100% WAF. And so far, 100% GuestAF for those using our guest bedroom, with the same setup.
$5.95 + $108.40 "expert installation" I will happily install them for $108 each!
I have one hidden under my dining room table to control the Sonos volume/skip/pause as needed.
Night light ones on each night stand to control lights and ceiling fans.
I even have one to control the up/down/fan on my kitchen downdraft after I burnt out the (not sold anymore) internal controller with a pan of boiling water. Fan is wired to a Z-wave switch, up/down motor is wired to 2 Fibaro RGBW controllers, powered by 2 POE injectors (one positive to go up, other negative to go down). All controlled via HE, not your everyday solution but it works great.
More uses still to come!
Back on the previous question about HUE working without the Bridge....
Has this been working well for users?
No. See the Zigbee mesh doc linked to above--it's likely to cause problems. If you already have the Hue Bridge, keep it. It can integrate with Hubitat through that. If you don't and want to use Hue Lightstrips for some reason, consider a way to make this and/or other types of Zigbee lights be the only devices on that Zigbee network. This is where the Hue Bridge comes in, though a second Hubitat would also work. If you just happen to not have any other type of Zigbee devices (motion sensors, contact sensors, etc.), then you'd also be good. Most people do, and the general recommendation is therefore to avoid this.
@Dauntless4rcher If you don't, current gen Hue bridges are readily available on ebay for under ~$30.