Sonoff Zigbee devices do not need to be flashed with Tasmota. They can be used as-is.
Flashing is to change the firmware on Wifi devices from what they come with (and typically needs to connect to the cloud to get instructions) to one that is local and that can easily be connected to from Hubitat.
Thank you Sebastien, really appreciate it.
With that in mind, am I right in assuming that I could for example get a wifi sonoff product, flash it and make it work locally directly with hubitat?
I am specifically thinking of this switch - Sonoff M5:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SONOFF-Mechanical-Switch-Neutral-Required/dp/B09QX1C3XT/ref=asc_df_B09QX1C3XT/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=570407010710&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6295574283712400076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006865&hvtargid=pla-1647301067691&psc=1
EDIT:
Will flashing reduce the lag I am currently experiencing with the Broadlink switch?
Thanks again
Not all wifi stuff can be flashed to tasmota. It all depends on the chip. Instead of trying to find something like that, stick with what's known to work with hubitat. You can always experiment later. I mean do you want to waste money now or get a viable home automation system working first?
I am soo thick!
I know I am now asking for a lot, but could you please post me a link to some inexpensive and hubitat compatible UK zigbee devices? Or at least point to me a brand?
I need some light switches ( 1, 2 & 3 gang ), temp/humidity sensors, Motion sensors, contact sensors, smart plugs and bulbs.
I understand If I am asking for too much, but I just can't get my head around it all 
I would post in the UK group as well, but you can look here (set yourself for uk) And when you find something post about it to see if anyone has it working. Again though look at the hubitat compatibility list and look it up locally on amazon...
https://docs.hubitat.com/index.php?title=List_of_Compatible_Devices
Hi and welcome! We all have our favorited devices and it can be overwhelming when starting out. Check here for a summary of the best products known to work well with the Hubitat: A Year In Review
This from @conrad4 ^^^^ - the Year in Review link. You'll find a summary of the products in each category that members here were fondest of (or in some cases hated the least). 
A good place to begin.
Many of us prefer smart switches controlling dumb bulbs in built-in lighting due to simplicity and ease of use. Manual control of the light works the way it did before things got "smart" (turn lights on/off w/switch) so you don't have to teach anyone to do anything different, but now you can also control the lights using motion lighting rules, time of day lighting, and other automations.
If you have smart bulbs and a normal wall switch, if your family/visitor turns the light switch off the smart bulbs are now dead and non-controllable. Not good. 
You can buy switches (Zooz & Inovelli are two) that can be set to "bulb mode" where they work as a smart bulb controller and don't turn power to the circuit they are attached to on/off. I would only do that if I wanted some of the additional benefits of smart bulbs in a location, like changing lighting tone during the day, using the bulbs to signal issues (turn purple when laundry is done, turn red at night when an outside door is open, etc.).
Lamps and any lighting w/on-off control switches directly on them are trickier...if the built-in lamp switch is turned off you will be unable to control the smart bulb in the lamp through any means. For lamps I provide a easy to see/reach smart button that controls a smart bulb in the lamp. I had to do some coaching w/my family so they would remember to use the smart button and not to turn the light off using the normal switch on the lamp. Making the smart button much easier to reach than the lamp switch itself has been key to the success of this approach - lazy family members use the smart button because it's easier. You can also plug lamps w/a dumb bulb into a smart plug, and again have a smart button for control.
I also use lamps to provide notifications via color changes so using smart bulbs in lamps is useful for me.
I'd start with smart light switches and outlets to build a strong mesh from mains powered devices that repeat, figure out where you may need/want to use lamps and ensure you have a good plan for controlling them that 1) Family members & guests won't constantly screw up, and 2) Is compatible w/the switches you buy. Then start adding motion and contact sensors to help drive your automations. I prefer Zigbee motion and contact sensors as they tend to be fastest reporting and smaller (generally) than Z-Wave devices.
Im in the UK with neutrals and ive gone down the zwave route for lights in the house as i wanted dimmers.
I have Fibaro dimmer 2's with schneider retractive grid switches, im very happy with them have 15 installed.
I use a mix of aeotec multisensor 6 & 7's for motion , lux and humidity all powered by usb some mounted in recessor's some wall mounted.
A couple of smart implants that link my smoke alarms and monitor my hot water tank and showers/bath.
3x aeotec plug in sockets
1 x aeotec recessed door sensor 7
1 x yale conexis l1 lock
I also have many zigbee devices
I use smartthings contact sensors for my doors.
I have 32 ledvance rgbw bulbs in the garden
3x hue outdoor motion sensors.
11 x cheap zigbee rgbw strip controllers
Tuya 4 button scene controller
Many smartthings buttons
A couple of aqua button (do keep dropping off)
Tuya and ikea repeaters
10 x heatmiser stats
5 x clicksmart double sockets
1 x single clicksmart socket
3x auro double sockets ( wouldn't really recommend)
many smartthings plug in sockets
1 x Yagusmart single switch
I have quite a few other bits as well i forget how much i have, but have a good mix of zwave and zigbee as i dont believe that you can do a whole house with just one or the other.
i have a few wifi devices but try and avoid if possible. (naonleafs, dehumidifer, coffee machine)
most of the bits i have im happy with and they work with little to no maintenance
you could do this with any smart switch just wire the bulb to the live rather than the switched live and write a rule/piston to control the bulb, not sure if you would get an electrician todo this but onced its signed off you can do what you want in your own home allegedly.
I prefer to wire things "normally" as much as possible so that there aren't any surprises for those coming after me if and when I suddenly drive off a cliff.
My setup (in the UK) is all Zigbee and (touch wood) has been stable for a year. I too didn't want to break the bank.
For smart bulbs I use a mixture of Philips Hue (expensive) and Ikea Tradfri (cheap). Due to possible mesh issues caused by smart bulbs these are ALL connected to a Philips Hue bridge (2nd hand off Ebay) and controlled with Hubitat using a really good integration app.
For the TV & IR side of things I use a Logitech Harmony (now discontinued).
Smart heating: Tado. It's a stand-alone system that has a Hubitat integration. It wasn't cheap but has smart radiator valves as well as room stats. You can set both the temperature and schedule for each room individually. It's also able to modulate the combi boiler & uses weather compensation.
But still available for sale online AFAIK and still the best TV remote system I've ever used. Harmony Hub is my fav.
Hi all,
Wow, looks like the thread took off nicely 
I am going to order a few of the Sonoff M5 zigbee switches to see how it goes - to be honestly, it's mainly the dark grey asthetics I am after.
Out of curiosity though, how do the bulbs affect the mesh? Is this something I should be paying attention to with my choices?
Thanks again!
Here let me help you with that... (konk.... puts cinder block on accelerator)
This company, click4electrics are now doing some nice zigbee outlets which for the basic white ones are only slightly more expensive than smart 'plug-in' outlets.
They also do some nice 'metal front' outlets that are more expensive but do look nice.
All we need is for them to start doing some nice light switches/dimmers.
I do have a couple of Aqara non-neutral light switches in some closets/cupboards that pair nicely and have never caused any issues.
I'm using these in my EN Suite and shower room. Work well. Never drop off.
I've moved across to these. Again, work well, never drop off.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08YRGYVXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These do the job nicely. Most of the Sonoff stuff plays nicely with HE.
Salus SP600 give power reporting. Ikea outlets. Both give power reporting and repeat.
I have some Hue strips paired to a Hue bridge and integrated into HE and these work nicely that way. As for bulbs in general, I keep away from them as I want to control my bulbs via the switch AND using automation. It is easy to turn of the switch to a smart bulb rendering 'dumb'. Just my preference.
My setup (UK) is almost entirely Z Wave.
Lights - Fibaro Dimmer 2. Standard switches replaced with MK grid plates with retractive switches. I like that there is no reliance as such on the hub. I have manual control at the switch but all lights can still be used in automations and report their status for viewing on dashboards etc.
Table Lamps, appliances - Fibaro Outlets. I use the power monitoring to trigger notification rules for my none smart washing machine.
Garden lighting, water features - Fibaro Double Smart Module & Fibaro Double Switch 2. I use these where it's not a plug in device and have also added retractive switches for local control - again so that there's no reliance on the hub.
Alarm System, Bed TV - Fibaro Smart Implant. Great little device. 2 inputs and 2 outputs that can be configured separately. One monitors the set status of the alarm and can also arm/disarm it in automations.
Curtains - Qubino Flush Shutter. I've fitted motorised curtain tracks from M systems with Dooya motors. I couldn't get the Fibaro equivalent to work properly with these motors. Also fitted with retractive switches for local control.
Garage Door - Fibaro Shutter 3. I pulled out the standard controller and wired the motor direct to this with local switches.
Motion Detectors - Fibaro. I have a few of these for motion lighting. I've recently fitted two in external enclosures front and rear of the house to monitor light levels for use in rules for curtains, blinds and outside lighting.
Contacts - Neo Coolcam and Aeotec. The Neo Coolcam are great contacts and fairly cheap (£18.99 Amazon UK). I needed the Aeotec specifically as it has a terminal input so you can connect any volt free switch to it. In my case I use it to connect a micro switch that monitors the lock on my bi fold doors.
Roller Blind - Zemismart AM45. My only Zigbee device. Blinds are not very well catered for in Z Wave (at least in UK frequency)
On top of that I have my alarm (Honeywell Galaxy) connected via Raspberry Pi and an MQTT integration. As a security installer I've added a lot of devices to the alarm in order to use this integration as I can use all of the devices already on the alarm for lighting and other automations such as turning off radiator valves when a window is open longer than a minute or so.
Ive read alot about how bulbs destroy your mesh but i have 32 ledvance gu10 rgbw zigbee bulbs in my garden which is about 1/3 of by zigbee devices and everything is hunky dory not had any issues, i have put 3 zigbee repeaters spread across the back of my bungalow dont know if that's saved me from issues or not 
I also have a BOB (roborock S5 Max hoover) which is wifi but integrated into Hubitat if your looking to get SWMBO on board with automation i highly recommend it, he hoovers when the house is empty and trundles back to his dock if we come home before hes finished never see him.
In my wifes words when i bought him why have u wasted all that money on a stupid hoover thats just going to get in the way, fast forward 1 week the wife said im putting the dyson on facebay as we dont need it any more 
a slice of humble pie??
Some bulbs are ZLL based. They make bad repeaters and messengers. They do not play well with ZHA based zigbee devices (sensors and what not). When the bulb goes into low power mode it stops repeating and anything routing through it is dead in the water. It is recommended that you keep bulbs on their own hub (either a hue bridge or another hubitat). The exceptions to this are Sengled bulbs (as they don't repeat) or zigbee 3.0 bulbs. Or you can use Lifx bulbs (best of the bunch)
Mine are ZGB what ever that is?
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