Would you mind posting the piston? I haven't used webcore in while and I'm visual.
Absolutely! I appreciate you looking at it.
And the resultant log entries:
+0ms ╔Received event [1410Hub].test = 1530282432314 with a delay of 23ms
+112ms ║20
+122ms ║0
+128ms ║off
+131ms ║ACTIVE
+141ms ║0
+152ms ╚Event processed successfully (151ms)
Looks like line 25 should produce a string with the fan speed.
I did a quick test with one of my apps to get the currentSpeed for one of my fans and it returned the string "medium" so it seems like this is a strange glitch in the webCore port. At least that's my novice opinion.
Any thoughts @jp0550 or @ajayjohnm?
Forgot to mention...if you get this sorted out, you will probably need to change your "SpdV" definition from decimal to string (or dynamic).
Thanks again. If I can get a status - any valid status - I can work with it. In my actual piston, I only need to know if it is off or not., "0" or "off" will work.
Well if you can't wait till our webCore gurus provide a response or a solution....you could create the child devices. The fan component will have 2 attributes you could check. The same speed attribute and the level attribute. The level on the fan device works like this
Edit: and the switch attribute will tell you if the fan is on/off as well
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I just tried this after deleting child devices, changing the parent back to the built-in driver, and recreating the two new child devices.
Alexa said she doesn't know how to set my fan to medium. It does work when I specify a % though.
Yeah...I think it only works with "high" and "low". These commands work with Alexa and any dimmable device so it's not a special command for the fans. It just works because of the setLevel command for the fan component.
You could create an Alexa Routine called something like “Fan Medium” that sets the level appropriately.
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All of my Echos work for "High", "Medium High", "Medium", "Low" and "Auto" on all 4 of my fans with the Hampton Bay controller using the new default driver.
Really...what is the exact command you give Alexa?
Also, are you using the new Alexa skill or the original Alexa smartApp?
Please advise on what should and shouldn't work with the new fan driver regarding Alexa. Different people appear to be having different experiences with voice control.
Alexa will respond to low and high. I have never had the word "medium" or "middle" work before. "Auto" wont work either. For Auto you can just tell her to set the level to 6.
Basically: Alexa, set the [Device] to [Speed]
"Alexa set the Living Room Fan to High".
I'm using the new skill.
Hi I need help here, I can nor reset this device to pair to Hubitat, I tried 5 3s on 3s off , 5 1s on 1s off , many times....
I need some tips.
I've had to reset mine once or twice and it was tricky. I'm not sure what actually helped, but I have a few suggestions. First, the manual does say 3 seconds, but like you I also tried different intervals (including rapid flips on and off)--but I suspect the longer (3 seconds) intervals did it. I did notice it takes a second or so for the lights in the light kit to flash (indicating a successful reset), so don't despair if you've finished the steps and don't see that right away. It also says five times, but I may have tried 6 or 7--not sure how picky it is about the intervals being exact, but doing a few more may have given me the chance to give it 5 or whatever the magic number is.
Second, while this shouldn't matter for resetting, I had better luck when the Hubitat hub was very close (had to bring it to the same room). This should only matter when pairing (and re-pairing was my ultimate goal), and maybe it was just coincidence, but that was my experience.
Third, did you have to reset because the controller stopped responding? (If you're moving from ST or Wink to Hubitat, then nevermind, though you may have been able to do this with a regular removal on either and a regular pairing to Hubitat). If so, something many people have found to work in keeping it paired and responding is to make sure there is at least one ZigBee repeater in the same room. (Related but not relevant here: despite being a mains-powered device, my XCTU-based analysis of my ZigBee network shows that it's not a repeater.) If it's a big room, far away from your hub, or you have lots of obstacles or 2.4-GHz-absorbing walls, I've seen the knowledgeable JDRoberts suggest having two on adjacent walls (i.e, two forming a 90° angle from the fan).
I don't know your situation but can't stress the third thing above enough--I've had no reason to reset or re-pair the device since keeping a repeater (XBee in my case, but any ZigBee repeater should do) in the same room, so if that's part of your problem, I'll suggest it again. 
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Reseting these things is a P-in-da-A. I found the following steps to be VERY successful btw using a peanut zigbee plug:
- Set HE into Pairing mode
- Power cycle the Hampton Device (3) times. Power on with light on, power off (count to 3), power on (count to 3), power off (count to 3), power on (count to 3), power off (count to 3), power on (count to 3).
- On Peanut Zigbee plug - turn it on. Then press and hold sync button (next to power button) until green light goes red.
- (repeat 1-2 times) Press the sync button (don't hold it) on the Peanut Zigbee which will make the Peanut flash red. Hampton fan flashes a couple times putting it into pairing mode.
Viola! Now your Hampton appears in HE. Make sure to have the parent/child drivers installed into HE prior to doing the above.
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Huh?, if you're using the built in driver there should be no need to do this...
Instead of using KOF?
The built In driver was upgraded a while back to included component devices (optional). If you look at the original post again, you'll see that I recommend using the built in driver since it incorporates most of what my custom driver did.
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