I have a Tradfri smart plug 6' below and about 4' to the side of it.
I see a pending job.
n Use By
| Handler | Next Run Time | Prev Run Time | Status | Schedule |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| logsOff | 2021-04-19 6:14:43 PM CDT | PENDING | Once |
Not sure what that is about. I get the feeling it is being indecisive still. The bedroom one did that to me as well. I don't recall how I cleared it.
I would think that (Tradfi) should work. You evidently have a C7. Iām still running on a C5. Not sure what that message means. Iāll have to investigate it and get back to you.
Turns the debug logging off @ 6:14pm
Most all Hubitat drivers automatically turn off Debug Logging after 30 minutes. What youāre seeing is the scheduled event that will take care of waking up the driver to do so.
Well so far I have this working in the kitchen fan controller.
#1. Remote control. Works 100%.
#2. Paired to Hubitat, and shared to Amazon Alexa skill.
#3. Light is controlled theoretically by motion / mode lighting.
Motion sensors not turning light on, and when I try to turn light on / off via Alexa, or change fan speed I get Kitchen Fan, or Kitchen Light not responding.
I have the components exposed so the parent device is called Kitchen, the child devices of course are fan, and light.
That's not necessary. If I weren't already so invested in my (I have five running....planning to install a sixth someday), I would seriously consider the Inovelli Fan/Light switch.
True, that is an option. It is predicated on the expectation that the RF unit that installs in the fan base will fit. They donāt typically fit in Hunter fans, among others. I ran into that with the Hampton Bay controllers. If you can install the dual control wiring, this isnāt an issue. Like I said previously, I completely understand the difficulty in doing that in an existing installation.
It doesn't have to fit in the fan base. My Hampton Bay controllers are in the ceiling above the fan. I just ran longer wiring.
In fact, some of my HB controllers are 20 feet from the fan. I wanted them to be close to my hub for better connectivity and easy resets if necessary.
That is actually something I had considered for my "hugger"fan. Just run some 14awg crimped and heat shrinked to get the RF receiver up into the attic. But how do you deal with the weak RF issue in the attic installation?
Well, I'm in Southern California, so I just had drywall between me and the attic, with a thin layer of insulation. Furthermore, the HB units are almost directly above my hub, so that helps overcome any RF interference that might exist. I also have a Peanut plug in the middle of them all as well.
My hugger fan is in the master suite dressing room / vanity. It's a good distance from the hub, but there are 3 Ikea Tradfri smart plugs within 10' of the fan. I can run a few feet of 14ga AWG in some PVC conduit to get it immediately over the plug that powers my wifes bedside lamp. The big question I have though, I know with 12V crimps are 100% okay, is that a problem with 110v?
Sorry I didn't notice your comment on it. Yes I am a new convert to Hubitat with the C7 hub.
I should have gone with Hubitat when I bought into ADT Smartthings but at the time I was hard sold on I had to have a keypad for security, and the Iris keypads weren't in the support matrix yet.
Stupid move on my part. I literally ended up back where I felt I should have gone instead of Smartthings when they pulled the plug on Iris...
Well, here's my setup. (I realized I actually have six lights.... One more to go.) I love it, but some people have cringed when they saw it, lol!! At some point, I'll clean up the connections.
The circle at the bottom is my Peanut plug. All the fans and lights radiate out from this central area.
You have electrical code violations all over your attic. Every one of those 120VAC wire nut connections is supposed to be contained inside an electrical box with a cover. If your insurance company sees these photos, theyād probably deny any claims caused by an electrical fire.
I would not advise anyone else ever attempting this. Follow the manufacturerās instructions and all local/national electrical code. Or hire a licensed electrician.
And so much more! That looks like 14 gauge Romex used with the twin 20 amp breakers, one of which is double-tapped. That first photo is nightmare inducing.
Thatās ok. It gets hard to keep up with a busy thread.
Many (most?) of us came from SmartThings. We started there for various and sundry reasons. I think a lot of why we started with ST is their marketing machine.
For me, Hubitat is what I had hoped SmartThings would be.
While I like the idea of relocating the controller, I fully and whole heartedly agree with others here. Those pictures are scary looking in regards to electrical code.
I am curious if it would be a valid / legit application to put the controller inside a plastic electrical box with a lid to containerize the connections.
My wife is an accountant. I showed here these pictures and before I could explain what was going on in them she said that looks like 
.
This is what @ogiewon suggested. Putting each controller into a workbox with a lid would be a start to fixing the situation. The breaker panel needs to be fixed as well vis-a-vis breaker sizing and use. And in some jurisdictions, all the Romex would have to be within conduit.
Off course this assumes the manufacturer has tested the safety of those controllers within enclosed workboxes.
The controller being within the confines of the canopy is technically within the enclosure of the ceiling fan box. At leat from my perspective... What do I know?
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