I am pretty sure that first link I posted will do exactly what you want. It takes into account the door state when controlling it. It uses virtual devices, and I believe it changes the virtual device from open to closed via the app. So that should just work once you get it installed and configured.
I just looked at the code in it and it accomplishes what I did in rules. I think I was just confusing myself with the extra rule of toggling the virtual contact sensor and overthinking it.
Thanks again for your help.
1 Like
One thing the code does have that I won't have is an accelerator. Since I'm just going to use a standard contact sensor, I think I'll stick with my rules. Definitely fun to play with the code and learn more though
Stupid MyQ 2.0+ security...it doesn't work. Looks like I need to get another 2.0+ security device and tap this into that to control it
Can you solder?
Some people have tied into the physical button on the wall, and "pressed" that button with the relay. Basically same as what you did, but at the wall button microswitch.
I have a second button coming tomorrow. I'm going to put that in parallel with the existing setup and mount it by the opener. I don't want to tap into the existing panel as it's in my line of sight when I go into the garage. I'd prefer to not see it with the wires around it. If I connect it on the motor, it's above everything and will be out of the way. I plan on doing exactly this, soldering into that button and using it to trigger everything.
You can run another set of wires wherever you want, you could still mount your relay to the opener, and run the tiny wire over to the button on the wall.
Or are you saying your existing wires run behind the drywall or are hidden somehow?
yea, existing wires are in the wall. the only way i would get extra wire to the switch would be to use the existing wire as a snake, and have it pull new wire through
Worst case if I can't put the two control panels in parallel, I'll just get another remote to program and have to manage the battery over time. I'm trying to use a second control panel so I won't have to manage batteries though 
Switches work in parallel. Looks like I'm all good with this now
would it be possible for you to take pictures of your setup?
I just received my Zooz Zen16 Multirelay. I thought I was going to be installing this up by the opener (out of sight), but upon further research it looks like I'm supposed to install it by my switch (eye-level, and unsightly).
If its the same wire at the switch and the opener, why can't I connect it up at the opener?
Side Question - my first time working with a relay, thought it would come with some wires, do I need to order wires? If so, is there a certain spec of wire I need? Thanks!
You could if your opener doesn't use Security+ 2.0. For such openers (which are newer), the switch is powered by the opener (i.e. 2 wires), but controls the opener using an encrypted wireless signal, much like a remote.
Connecting the dry contact relay across the switch's terminals permits the same encrypted signal to be sent wirelessly using the radio in the switch.
Note: this only applies to openers that use security+ 2.0
Edit: You could consider buying a second switch and putting it and the ZEN16 into a project box that is mounted right by the opener. The second switch would have to be paired to the opener and connected to the same wiring terminals as the first switch.
When I open up behind the switch are two white wires coming out of the wall - according to some research this is where I’m supposed to install the Zooz relay.
However, attached is the picture of the wires by the opener... can I just wire it up there? Any certain wire specs I need to purchase to complete the connection?
Brand and model# of your opener? It doesn't look like any I've seen - just need to be sure it is not Security+ 2.0
Thanks for looking into this!
I assume you are looking at page 24?
How do I know which wires to put to the relay? 4 wires at the opener and 2 at the switch?
Regardless I assume the rest is the same- two white wires into the R1 on the ZOOZ and then from the SW1 back to the wires that were disconnected?
1 Like
And 23.
You will need to connect to terminals 1 & 2 only. 3 & 4 go to the safe-t-beam (page 23).
1 Like
