Oh man, that's definitely what we want to do -- I love that recessor!
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Just circling back on this.
What I ended up doing for now was using an additional Zooz 4-in-1, and taping entirely over the motion sensor (my wife's suggestion). This way only the temp, humidity, and lux get reported (and I can modulate the frequency by tweaking the trigger parameters in the device setup ā within the previously identified 3 - 5 minute cycle of the sensor that I found in other posts).
Conversely, the other 4-in-1 I had already now doesn't need to use those, and I can adjust those three parameters to minimize their frequency (and maximize the battery) ā I may replace with a motion-only device at some point.
One note is that it seems the tape needs to be off the sensor, so it can read motion, when updating any of the sensor settings by waking it up.
Thank you all for the recommendations.
i need a sensor that works from temp, mothion and accepts usb power.. the multi 6 is way too chatty with no way to reduce the messages
It's in this area that Zigbee sensors really shine.
There are a number of them that will do the trick - and are battery powered that seem to last forever.
NYCE makes a great sensor, as does Tuya, as does Centralite, as does....
If you have the Zigbee mesh, (or even part of a Zigbee mesh), this is the approach to go for.
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I have about 8 of the MS6 units. They used to last about a year on SmartThings, but I'm lucky if I get 1-3 months on Hubitat.
That being said, people might not be aware, but it seems the batteries do not drain evenly. When I remove them from the sensors, I see typically one is at 0.5v, and the other is still at 3.0v. Do check when you're swapping... could be wasting. Also, when you put in one battery, the sensor lights up... kind of weird. I guess it's a parallel circuit, but doesn't evenly draw.
After posting this thread, I found this in another one:
I think it explains the voltage you've measured. I ended up getting in touch with Zooz, and it seems it was because the sensor was automatically connecting with S0 security, and never prompted me to choose. I had to get a z-stick to use as a secondary controller, so I could get the prompt to include without security.
I didn't realize you could actually use the secondary control to include devices... this makes me wonder if I could use this trick to include my Schlage lock that refuses to work on the C7. Force it into S0 or none mode. The only message I get that indicates it's almost working is the bootstrap-now-exclude-and-repair thing in the logs. The UI really should indicate something in this scenario.
I wish I could be of more help, but I can only paste for you what their support mailed me:
Here are the step-by-step instructions on how to add the ZSE40 without security using a 500 series Z-Wave stick:
- Include the Z-Wave stick as a secondary controller using the PC Controller software (you can follow the first 4 steps in this support article to set the stick up using the software): In Hubitat, click on Discover Devices > Z-Wave > Z-Wave Inclusion and click on Classic Learn Mode in the PC Controller window. Uncheck any security boxes that Hubitat prompts.
- In PC Controller, click on the new PC Controller device created (Node ID different than 1).
- Click the 'Add' button.
- Click the Z-Wave button on the ZSE40 twice quickly to put it in inclusion mode (the LED indicator will flash quickly). If you open the logging screen in Hubitat, you will see activity including an Add Node completed message.
- Go back to the Z-Wave details page in Hubitat and check to see the sensor has been added. There should be "None" in the Security column.
An added note is that Silicon Labs has built a sort of Eclipse type Java "shell" that PC Controller is now a part of. So, it will seem like the link to their application is wrong, but it's because the PC Controller is an app you have to install from that shell environment.
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Yeah, I already have the working software for the Z-Stick -- I just didn't know you could actually add new devices to the network once it was added as a secondary controller. I've use the method to upgrade firmware on MS6 (pointless btw.)
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Yeah me either - my original thought was that it would pair to the secondary controller... wrong!
Also you cannot pair devices with S2 security as the authentication does not pass between controllers.
I only have 3 MS6's left in my network - they are all USB powered, firmware up to date (agree on the pointless!) and on the edge of my network.
Earlier (way before C-7) had lots of issues with the devices being very poor repeaters. To get around it there used to be a trick where if you paired the MS6 via battery first then switched to the usb connection it would not repeat. I think later firmware "corrected" this hack not sure I never had much luck anyway.
I still can't figure out why MS6 lasted a full year, or longer on ST, but only 2-3 months tops on HE, same mounting locations. Is it just that HE is way chattier? Obviously there's some difference, with how many people are experiencing the same problems.
Some have said that pre-C-7 the ST radio was more powerful. If that's the case some devices might have a more difficult time communicating / higher transmission error rate etc and therefore maybe use more energy. I'm not sure about this though.
I had the misfortune of having a group of MS6s in the basement that just happened encircle my hub.. this proved less than ideal, was periodically getting terrible throughput rates, device latency and a bunch of other seemingly random issues. Ended up relocating the hub back to the main floor, replacing most of the MS6's with Inovelli 4-in-1's and all was right with the world.
I did learn how to zniffer though so that was nice.
If I may ask, what is your experience with the Inovelli sensor.
As fast as Zigbee?
What kind of battery does it take?
Battery consumption?
So mine are usb powered... they seem to be responsive. Not as fast as Zigbee sensors but my goal was more not having to replace batteries all the time in the basement. The Inovellis do tend to sleep a lot so are probably better at powersaving than the MS6's. Both Inovelli and MS6 devices have the latest and greatest firmware.
If I were to go with a battery powered sensor it would probably be the NYCE stuff.
I have one of these, and it's battery usage is amazing low.
However, if you look closely at the price, you will see why I only have one of them:
(By the way, NYCE is a Canadian company!)
Adding a device to a C-7's secondary controller does work. I show this in another topic:
That test was triggered by a question of using a UZB-7 stick (700 series ZWave) vs any series 500 stick. So it may not be as detailed as you'd need... just be certain you understand that the Hubitat hub doesn't instantly see the new device. Patience is rewarded. 
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Wow why is that so expensive? We can get them for $52 USD / $66 CAD in the US.
It's the cost of adding French to the packaging. 
(very much a Joke.)
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I've pretty much had it with the MS6, so I ordered some others to play with. Nyce ceiling, Hue outdoors, and indoors.
I have ST zigbee motion sensors from all years, including the very first, and man, they are so quick to respond, and last like a year on batteries. I do wish more of them used rechargeable AAAs though, like the first, because now I have an ARMY of Eneloops just sitting around.
I think you will like the NYCE stuff - very responsive and long lasting too.
