FYI to Zen51 users -- Zooz has firmware 1.90 out -- it resolves some unintended shenanigans incurred with the 1.80 firmware (e.g. LED behavior), and it looks like it can be used with both hardware models of the Z71 (which was one of 1.80's unfortunate original issues).
I installed it on my v1.30 hardware model, and it's working great.
Oooh, the new smaller Zooz relays are now released!
Jeff, do I recall correctly that you had early access to one or both of these? Or maybe I'm thinking of something else...
I have some. Working on a smart things driver this week. You can use the input for sensors like the other relays so it’s a pain for drivers.
They are freaking small I will say that. About the size of a quarter and a little deeper than the zen51
I just hooked up a ZEN17 to my fireplace, installed the driver and included this device in Hubitat and Google Home. Everything works fine. I can turn it on via Hubitat or simply with "Hey Google, turn on/off fireplace". I also connected my old thermostat control (image below) to the S1 and C terminals on this relay and (my wife) can now control the fireplace the old fashion way or as I stated above.
Now here is my problem. Using the Skytech remote as a thermostat set to a specific temperature along with this drivers option Auto Turn-Off R1: TIME could result in the relay shutting off (time ran out) the fireplace while the thermostat still has not reached its set temperature. The thermostat assumes the FP is still on and if I lower the temperature below its current setting it sends a signal to turn it off but in fact, because the FP is already off, it turns it back on. For now I have set the Auto Turn-Off R1: TIME to zero
I decided I would use a Hubitat RM to turn off the FP if the temp gets too high but that doesnt change my problem. I still end up with a FP that is actually off and a thermostat that thinks its on.
I have considered hardwiring the old thermostat directing to the same FP terminals as the ZEN17 but that solution makes me nervous. I saw in the logs info on Relay 1 and Relay 2. What do each of the relays do?
My life would be simpler if I could just chuck this thermostat but that would not go over well in our house.
Any ideas on how I can get these two to work together so both are always in synch???
It might help if you showed a wiring diagram of the gas valve, Zen17 and the existing control unit. Sounds like you have an AND or an OR problem. You could connect the ZEN17 relay in parallel with the existing controller then the flame will light if either the remote calls for heat OR the Zen17 calls for heat. If you wire them in series then it becomes an AND condition.
You should explore the many advanced setting in the ZEN17. For instance there is an auto off feature, you could set it for say, after 2 hours the relay shuts off just as a precaution from inadvertent triggering (parameter 15) or forgetting to shut off. There are also parameters about how the physical switch works with the ZWave controlled relay. For instance you could set parameter 10 to simply report the switch input to Hubitat and then use logic in a rule to decide whether the remote has priority or Hubitat does. There are many options.
Above all be careful with controlling a gas appliance remotely. Ensuring adequate fail-safe mechanisms is critical. It isn't the "typical case" that might bite you but the rogue condition you didn't consider. Parameter 15 can help with a overall auto off but things like high limit sensors are a good idea as well. Your fireplace might already have some of these, if not, consider adding independent fail-safe paths (like a high limit switch in series with gas valve control line), ideally not dependent on Hubitat, ZEN17, or the remote unit to kill the flame.
I have it hooked up exactly as shown in this video. The only difference is that I have a battery RF remote with a receiver connected to S1 and C terminals while the guy in the video uses a wall switch connected the same terminals.
You are right. I have option 2 and will try your suggestion. Will get back to you after I do some testing
SOLVED
That did the trick. Thanks for your help
I have a ZEN52 using the advanced driver but I can't seem to get it out of Debug logging level. Each time I save the setting to info it reverts back to Debug with a configure. I suppose that was intentional based on above. If I change to info and do a save will that suppress the debug info to the logs? However if I change another parameter and press config it will toggle back to debug? I guess if I know I can work with this. Why the importance of debug logging being forced on? In my case I am trying to keep the logs fairly clean.
You don't need to run configure when you change settings, just save at the bottom of the page. Configure is to reconfigure the entire device, clears a bunch things out and then sets and confirms every single setting.
Yes, or it should time out and go back to Info on its own.
Because configure is mainly only for troubleshooting, you need debug on to see what is happening. I got tired of telling people to enable debug logging and then not listening.
I can't seem to get the Zen51 to work for my garage door. I see online that it has a garage door mode but can't find much info outside of wiring it for a three or four way switch. My opener is a Liftmaster. I've tried every configuration of wiring but nothing seems to work (using it as a relay only). I changed the parameter to do garage door mode and it works as a momentary, but still doesn't move the door. Is there something I'm missing?
Does your Liftmaster have a yellow learn button?
If so, then using a basic relay like the Z51 or Z1x will additionally need one of these:
YES! That's what I'm missing. Thank you!! I don't have much, but I was about to the point of pulling my hair out. I knew it was wired correctly but it was obviously missing a piece that "authorized" it to trigger.
So the wall buttons have this component in them. I wonder if you could duplicate or wire into the existing piece.
Yes, you can soldier wires to the correct pads on any button or remote to make your own. That pre-made one is sold as a convenience item for those who don't want to mess with it. I have seen guides out there showing which contacts to use.
Since the user of a wall button has to be in the garage to access it, which implies they also have access to the track disconnect lever, I have wondered why go through the extra complexity of an encoding wall button.
To prevent third party buttons from being used of course.
There's so many threads/posts it's hard to find the info you're looking for sometimes.
Here's a LINK to a post with some links to some threads about some of the GDO solutions. 
Download the Hubitat app
