Dimmer wiring help - red, neutral and ground doubts

Where in Canada are you? I have all the tools and can be useful sometime (according to my wife). I will even let you do all the work for a beer. I am in BC lower mainland.

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The house is 2018 built, so relatively new.

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Ontario :slightly_smiling_face:

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I just checked that it seems that the green ground screw in the new enbrighten dimmer is connected to the dimmers top and bottom screw plates... Which might mean that similar to the existing dumb dimmer, if the box is grounded, then I might not need to physically connect the ground wire to my enbrighten dimmer? Any thoughts?
My multimeter is arriving in two days and I'll check if the ground screw is connected to the dimmer body screw plate.

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That is also my understanding. Not sure if code requires the ground to be directly connected or not though…

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In the US, my understanding is that the color of wire insulation is customary, but not truly standardized or codified. I’m not sure how it works in Canada.

The recommendations to check each wire with a multimeter are spot on, though.

It’s the only safe way to proceed.

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Correct. At least in the US, it used to be that if the work box is grounded, then a self-grounding device (like your switch) is grounded through the box. I don’t think that has changed.

Edit: @saurabh9 - that hasn't changed. However, I would recommend you watch this video before installing your switches to ensure your self-grounding switches are installed correctly.

Typically the same as in the states as far as I know. Black is hot (live), white is neutral, copper is ground (sometimes green). Red is usually either a hot for 220v (baseboard heat) or one of the hot part of a 3-way. (All based on my experience here…)

No idea what your Local Code might say, but... like for like seems logical.
(Might be an issue since your new switch uses the neutral. :man_shrugging: )

And fyi: National Building Code

Not that I've read either one. :wink:

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Ground the switch with a ground wire and not with the 2 screws on the switch. Sure there are exceptions but your case is not one.
We know how tighten those 2 screws on the switch.

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Do what everyone is saying and get a meter and figure out what is what. I just replaced a 4 way with some Leviton zwave switches and the wire colors aren't always standard. In my case the white was hot in the one box. I had to take all the wires apart in the boxes and then ohm things out with the power off to figure out how in the world it was wired up. I had diagramed out the circuit and taken pictures before I did anything.

Also not sure if the zigbee is different than the zwave of those switches but I had terrible luck with the zwave versions of the GE Enbrighten v2 switches with flickering. Certain bulbs don't play nicely with the zwave version of these.

Switches or Dimmers? In case of the dimmer you might need something like this:

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For mine the flicker is annoying I could look at those dimmer load things but I just replaced the dimmer with a Leviton one and problem solved. Living room lamps would turn completely off and back on if you use the microwave with the GE switch. Others will flutter when it gets to the top of the range, or just randomly flutter. Leviton with the same bulbs no issues.

Did you make sure you were not hitting your max load capacity of the switch? Also some switches (like Zooz Zen23/24) specifically mention they are not for devices like fans.. whereas the (newer) GE enbrightens are.

Also - you have a smart switch hooked up to an outlet? I'm not sure that is a good idea.

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LOL yeah I had an Aeon microswitch in there before for the lamps. If anything I might be under the load capacity for the switch. Lamps I have 2 40w LED bulbs, the other flicker ones are 2 bulb ceiling fixtures with LED bulbs. It seems that every place I have the GE switches with 2 bulbs they flicker, downstairs I have them with 4 LED bulbs and they work perfectly. So I would think that Aeon dummy load would fix it.

Agreed. Unless the switch is rated at 15A @ 120VAC (assuming North America).

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Looks like it can do 8.33 amps, 1000w of incandescent power it says. Close enough nobody will change the plug to anything else.

I had an electrician install a Zooz Zen23 switch for a front foyer light that was also (unbeknownst to me) tied in with a front porch outlet.. Since this was during a remodel, several contractors decided to use that outlet for their saws, compressors etc.. ruined a couple switches before figuring out what the heck was going on. Wasn't necessarily the contractors fault - they did not know but had been told not to use those outlets for other reasons.

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I just wanted to state for the record that I just installed 5 of those Enbrighten zwave plus no neutral switches 52252.
I had no issues with flickering, and I used very low power LED bulbs (in one case, just one BR30).
They are working very well, and with simplifit (much smaller in the box), and the ability to switch load and line (just like Lutron Caseta), these switches have fulfilled their function admirably well.

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:rofl:

A little nip might be the BEST outcome to realize that wire isn't what you thought.

In my experience the presumption of a wire's purpose, and careful handling (circuit breaker off) , allows wiring it up AND ONLY LATER REALIZING that somebody wired that circuit up in an unexpected way. [ GIF stolen from the net :crazy_face: ]

resized sparks

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