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Been using Two for a couple of months. Works great to turn On-Off HSM security. Only problem I have is batteries are lasting only 2 to 3 weeks.
Hi, have you experienced any of the ST Presence sensors failing to check in? I.e they are within range, work for a period of time but then stop phoning home. The result being the hub doesn’t know where they are? It has happened with two new v4 tags from amazon and it’s got me wondering if it’s a bad batch or hub communication issue. Is there an easy way to find the failure point?
I have 3 and they only fail when if the battery gets low.
Interesting. Wonder if I’ve got a bad set of batteries? Thank you.
I have also modded the battery on all of mine.
2 of them to 2 AA batteries and the other one just to straight 5 volts in my car.
The 5 volt one in the car is only powered on when the car is running.
I should have also mentioned they do not have very good range so you need a few zigbee repeaters to create a good zigbee mesh.
especially near your entrances
How did you do the mods? Can you share a few details please because I don't understand how to easily moderate/modify the voltages from the batteries 2x 1.5v and 9v right? Thank you!
2 X 1.5 volt and 5 volt not 9 volt
The arrival sensor batteries are only 3.3 volt but 5 volt seams to work fine
for my car and 5 volts I removed the battery and used an old USB and cut off the micro/mini end. USB is only 5 volts then soldered the red and black wire to positive and negative. then plugged the usb into a usb port in my car.
I am probably going to change this though and wire the arrival sensor to power on my rear view mirror.
The 2 X 1.5 volt AA = 3 volts
mod can be read about on SmartThings
Ah I see. I meant 12v not 9v (I was wondering how you got the voltage down from 12v in the car to 5v for the device). I didn't realise you were connecting straight to a USB socket in the vehicle which already has the voltage reduced. Nice. But for the battery box hack, 3v powers these devices ok then?
yes 3 volts works fine. They last 2-3 months on rechargeable batteries much longer if you use lithium batteries. That one is in my son's school back pack.
one of the other boxes I had an old usb rechargeable xbox controller battery pack that had died so I took the usb charger circuit board out and wired it in the battery box with rechargeable batteries then plugged it into a usb port on my other car so it charges the batteries whenever the car is running. (I have never had to change batteries on it)
This way my other car is showing present whenever it is home and off
the first car (with 5 volt usb mod) which shows away when turned off.
But I have found it that showing away when home and off is not really a big deal.
Really helpful info, thanks. By having it active even when the car is turned off, I guess you can also easily check if the car is being trailered away by thieves at night after you've put the hub into sleep mode!
I park them both in the garage so they would have to get past all my sensors and cameras in my garage but yes that would be a plus.
Some co-workers have gps tackers in their cars which they have to pay a yearly fee for.
I think one of the local cel phone companies also has a tracking device that you have to pay a monthly fee for as well but not sure how either of those would work with Hubitat.
The best response/use is the one in my son's back pack due to walking is much slower and gives the hub time to respond much better (1-2 houses away) vs my cars which approach the house much faster and I am pretty much right at the garage door before they start to open. I only use them as a backup to my cel phone presence/arrival with Life360 app though.
Yeah, agreed. These are great use cases for locks in particular, where GPS is too broad. But maybe switch your sports car for something slower up the drive lol. Thanks again for the explanation.
sport car I wish ! you missed I have kids
likely the metal from the minivan blocking the signal thus I am going to try wiring it to the review mirror instead of in the glove box.
@batrad Any luck integrating the 2Gig Panel?
no luck. gave up on 2Gig integration for zwave devices. Ended up moving all zwave devices over to ST for now and creating a relay to arm/disarm ST from 2Gig which in turn arms/disarms HE as we primarliy use the 2Gig/Alarm.com app to arm our home
Posted the solution in ST forum
I have two HS-MS100+ sensors and can confirm that they behave fine with the Zooz ZSE18 driver. There are a couple differences, however. From a driver perspective, all I can see is that the Zooz sensor supports the LED parameter (#20), which is not listed in the HomeSeer manual, and trying to set it it (just for fun) didn't seem to have any effect. The driver also logs a message saying you can wake the device by holding the "z-button" for 5 seconds, which is consistent with the Zooz manual, but the HomeSeer manual says to tap it 4 times instead. The generic driver also works, but you lose easy access to these other parameters that are exposed in the Zooz drivers and otherwise all match.
Other than that, there are minor differences in the device itself. The lens on the ZSE18 is a bit larger, and, as you might expect, the printing on the back of the device is a bit different. (EDIT: This actually might be the way both are now. I see HomeSeer advertising the HS-MS100+ "G2," which must be a "second generation" sensor; I have the older one. Perhaps Zooz had an older one like the one I have, too; they are almost certainly the same device with slightly different firmware from the same white-label manufacturer.) The rest appears nearly identical, including the remainder of the case and the adjustable magnetic mounts, so there appear to be minor firmware differences and a different lens (not sure if this helps it see farther, longer, or sooner) as the only notable differences.
But to your second point: neither of mine found either the generic or Zooz drivers after pairing. Did staff ever get back to you if they added this fingerprint? (I'm not sure if Mike does Z-Wave drivers, but I could tag him to verify if so.)
No - I don't think its been added.
I am just getting started, so my list is a bit small compared to some. Here is everything I am managing through HE.
2 /Zigbee / Yale / Assure Lock SL with Zigbee
2 / Zigbee / Centralite Key Pad
2 / Zigbee / Samsung / SmartThings Button
3 / Zigbee / SYLVANIA / SMART+ ZigBee Bulb, Color
1 / Zigbee / SYLVANIA / SMART + LED strips
1 / Zigbee / Visonic / MCT-340 E Wireless Door Window Contact and Temperature Sensor
1 / Z-Wave / Aeon Labs/ Aeon Labs Doorbell - Gen 6
1 / WiFi / Konnected / Alarm Panel Wired Alarm System Conversion kit
2 / WiFi / Wemo / MIni Smart Plugs
3 / WiFi / Wemo / Dimmer
4 / WiFi / Wemo / Light Switches
2 / WiFi / EcoBee / EcoBee 3 Smart Thermostat
4 / WiFi / EcoBee / Smart Sensor v1
2 / WiFi / EcoBee / Smart Sensor v2
3 / WiFi / Google / Mini
4 / WiFi / Logitech / Harmony Hub and Remote
1 / WiFi / Rachio / Rachio 3 Smart Spinkler Controller