Every time they go down, theyâre taking your zigbee end devices offline because youâre losing zigbee routers/repeaters.
A stable zigbee mesh requires routers that stably remain on the mesh.
Every time they go down, theyâre taking your zigbee end devices offline because youâre losing zigbee routers/repeaters.
A stable zigbee mesh requires routers that stably remain on the mesh.
The only Zigbee end device that I'm losing is the keypad, which is mere feet from the hub (so I wouldn't have thought losing repeaters would affect that). Door sensors, battery-powered buttons, and the like are all fine.
If it is a bad plug, how do I know which one is dying? I'll be happy to experiment with replacing them but I have a ton of them in the house.
Have you mapped the route from the hub to the keypad? Do you know itâs not going through a router thatâs going offline?
It's connected directly to the hub. Sometimes I have seen it connected to one of these outlets but that one has not experienced trouble (and that outlet is connected directly to the hub).
It is really hard for the community to diagnose what appears to be a fairly unique issue specific to your current setup. Your Zigbee mesh is having issues, but it is not clear where the root of the problems is.
Possible Hypotheses (off the top of my head)
Note: The reason I ask this is because a few years back, everyone bought up a bunch of Zigbee "Peanut Plugs" - these caused issues that only got worse the more one added to their system. Removing these smart outlets resolved the issues folks were having.
So, you can see why it is very hard for the community to provide a quick definitive answer. But we're trying!
Yes, I very much appreciate that it is a complex issue and I also appreciate your detailed reply.
It's funny you mention that- I used to use Peanut plugs and had that very issue. The Centralites that I'm using now are what was recommended to me when that issue was discovered.
Given it goes offline and comes online, this is a distinct possibility. I do have a C7 hub and it is in (very light) use. Moving all of these outlets over to that would be a fairly arduous task. Let me ask you this- if I had a spare C8 (from work), would a backup and restore from my existing C8 to one of those work (so we could rule that out)?
I am in a single family home. Wood framing with drywall. There are a few WiFi networks flying around, primarily on CH1. I use CH6 and my Zigbee is on CH 23 Power Level 8. WiFi CH11 is the least congested here so I figure the upper bands are best for Zigbee.
Yes, I have run into the bulb issue in the past as well. Replaced them all with Sengled bulbs (so they do not attempt to act as repeaters). I only have 4 bulbs in total. I do not have power/energy enabled, as far as I know. They all use the "Generic Zigbee Outlet" driver, which does have a "Power" state that shows, but it never changes from 0. So I think that is a no? Correct me if I'm wrong.
How would I find any chatty devices? Just watch the live log to see what yaps the most? Or is there a better way? As far as Zigbee goes, I have the Centralite outlets that we're talking about, 3 Third Reality Temp/Humidity Sensors, some Samsung Multisensors (mix of V4 and V5), Samsung buttons (3 of those), XHS2-UE Door Sensors, and a Lutron Aurora Dimmer (that talks to 2 of the Sengled bulbs). The other 2 Sengled bulbs are on the C7.
Again, appreciate your detailed reply. Hopefully there is something above that is useful or provides a clue.
If you have a Hub Protect subscription, then you could take a Cloud Backup of the existing C8 hub. Then, restore that Cloud Backup to another C8 hub. Only a Cloud Backup contains a full backup of the hub + a backup of the hubâs Zigbee and Z-Wave radios.
If you used a local backup, you would have to factory reset every single Zigbee device and re-pair them with the new hub after restoring the local backup. Each Zigbee device would then pop right back into place. Z-wave devices are a little more complicated.
I would explicitly open each outletâs Device details web page on the HE hub, and set the power reporting user setting to Disabled and then click Save. This should configure the outlets to not send power data for sure.
I would open the Settings->Ziggbee page. Then open the Zigbee logs and monitor them to see if any decice(s) are overwhelmingly chatty.
I do. Do you think it's worth trying?
I don't actually see that setting anywhere, using the "Generic Zigbee Outlet" driver. But there is a property for Power under the "Current States".
Will do. How would you define chatty? Just lots of events? Right now I'm looking at those logs and all I see are "profileId, clusterId, sourceEndpoint, destinationEndpoint, groupId, lastHopLqi, lastHopRssi" entries (maybe 5-10 a minute). How long should I monitor (would it be readily apparent)?
Not sure. If you suspect a hardware failure, then it âmightâ be a good idea. Tagging @bobbyD from Hubitat support to get his opinionâŚ
I am using the same driver on an older Centralite outlet.
Look here
Yes, usually a device, or specific model of device that is producing a bunch of traffic, often multiple events per second for an extended period of time.
Please create a subscription case if you suspect a hardware issue. I see that you have several hubs. Having a case on file for your particular hub would allow us to further investigate the problem that might be specific to your individual hub: Subscriptions â Hubitat Support