I'm a noob to this whole automated world. I bought the lock hoping that I could connect to a hub for automation. There's only one Z-wave plus device I'm trying to add to the hub. After installing lock and setting up Hub. I'm using SmartStart to add device. After I scanned the QR code, an entry was made in the SmartStart section. However, nothing happens from there. I tried adding without batteries in the lock, then plugging them in and hitting enroll button. Failed at the lock. Also does not show as a device in device listing. Batteries are new, Hub is 10 feet away from lock on same floor. I've factory reset the lock and the hub. Any help would be much appreciated.
How is hub being powered? Included cord and supply or something else (what)?
You do not have any other Z-wave devices at all?
You may want this app so you can see the SmartStart info from the hub interface: [APP] SmartStart Manager for Z-Wave (Long Range support)
Post a screenshot of the SmartStart Entry you have for the device. Here is my two locks of the same model for example. You will want Mesh mode and S2 Access Control grants.

To pair the device.
- Shut down the hub totally, unplug and remove power.
- Factory reset the lock, then remove batteries
- Power up the hub, confirm SmartStart settings.
- Open live logs in new tab to watch for pairing messages.
- Power up device, it should pair by itself (with selected boot mode) shortly after it boots up. You should not need to put it into inclusion mode.
- If it does not try to pair (nothing in logs) after a few minutes then try putting it into inclusion mode manually and see if that will kick it off.
To post screenshots, join the Owners group from here:
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And welcome!
Thanks for your reply. The hub is powered by the supplied power cord. I just bought it this week along with the lock. No other Z-Wave devices that I know about. But there may be some. I did install the app and got the screen shot below:
If you cannot access the pic. I have S2A and S2AC selected for the lock and do not have SmartStart Mesh as an option when assigning attributes. If that is bootmode, I have SmartStart LR assigned.
I'll try the steps you've outlined below and let you know what comes of it. Thanks again!
I don’t think LR mode will work for that device? It needs to be in mesh mode or it will fail. According to that it already is included as node 7 but no device got created. You might have a dead node on the radio now. You need to check settings, zwave details. Need to clear out any failed pairing before moving ahead.
I did the steps listed above. There wasn't a record in the Z-Wave Details when I took that screenshot. Only a record in the SmartStart Manager App. When I performed the steps, a record did show in the Details and then this one showed in the SS Manager just like the ones you had listed:
I noticed its on Node 8. When I checked Zwave details there was a record for the lock on Node 7. No Device in the Device Manager. So I deleted out the Zwave Details record thinking it was a ghost? Should I try the process again? Provide a log? If so which one? Thanks
I would do a hub shut down and restart first, then check z-wave details again. In case some sort of cache was stuck and node 8 suddenly shows up, it could be paired and working.
If not working, from there you could just try doing an exclude on the lock (put hub in exclusion, then start exclusion on the lock). As soon as it excludes it should try to join again with SmartStart.
If you cannot get SmartStart to work, there is also traditional inclusion, you just need to make sure you select security and type in the 5 digit DSK PIN when asked. Typically SmartStart is easier, not sure why it is giving you such problem.
z-Wave details show two records on nodes 7 and 8 after reboot. Removed one for node 7 after refreshing the record(remove button not available prior to). Now there is only one record but doesn't look right(node8) there is no remove option and refresh/repair does not make it appear? Also still no device in list.
Seems like it is failing to pair fully, getting stuck somewhere in the process, node gets created but it must not be getting all the info back from the device, so it is not creating the device on the hub side. I do not think you need to have those Schlage locks super close to the hub, I think I paired mine 30ft away from in my office. BUT, if you can get the hub on Wifi or have a long ethernet cable, if you move it closer to the lock it might possibly help. Z-wave locks are usually much happier when you have repeaters (other line powered z-wave devices) near them.
Also, since you have no other z-wave devices, you could go into the Diag Tool > Advanced, and reset the z-wave radio. This will be sure to clear out any leftovers on the radio.
If you want to give a manual inclusion a shot, disable or remove it from SmartStart. Then go to Devices > Add Device > Manually: Z-Wave > Start Inclusion. Then put device into inclusion mode. Make sure you have the DSK/PIN handy, you have to type it in. You MUST use security if asked, when pairing locks or doors.
While Schlage locks are excellent for security, they are somewhat finicky when pairing with the hub. You need to have the lock in close proximity to the hub when pairing as this is secure pairing that requires extra data transfer during the pairing process.
You can use an extension cord to move your C8 Pro hub to within 5-10 feet of the lock installed in the door. Another option is to do as I did and remove the lock from the door and connect the two halves of the lock using the electrical connector and move the lock within 5-10 feet of the hub.
Be sure to reset the lock before pairing. Then use the Z-wave Exclude and Include commands to pair it. You will need the security codes printed on the lock during the pairing process.
Once paired, the lock and/or hub can be returned to their normal positions. Unless your lock is within line of sight of your hub, it might be necessary to install one or more beaming repeaters/ range extenders. When the repeater receives a message from either the lock or the hub, it will continue to transmit the message until it is acknowledged by the receiving device. I have used both Aeotec Range Extenders and Ring Z-wave repeaters.
The Ring range extenders are less expensive than the Aeotec, but they are also much larger. so they are not easy to hide. Both seem to work well. Although range extenders are passing secure data, they do not need to be paired with security.
This morning I was able to get the lock recognized as a device. I did what you suggested and reset the Zwave Mesh in the diagnostics. I also moved the wifi enabled hub from 10ft to 2ft. After I reset the lock and the Zwave mesh, the SmartStart record was still in Pending status. Then I activated the lock and it appeared in the Zwave Details and later the Devices. Thanks so much for your help. I'm not sure what ultimately did the trick between the above two steps, but I'm thinking there may have been a ghost record in that was put in during my flubbing of the process early on. But I'll never really know. Appreciate you sticking with this with the assist. It was a great lesson that helped me understand a lot of the process.
Please post your z-wave details page. One of the things that prevents devices from pairing are ghosts.
They just did a radio reset before getting it to work, so should be fine.
I had fits with mine too. I have 4 of them.
I did find a note online that even after a factory reset to pull the batteries and hit the "Schlege button" on the keypad several times before reinserting the batteries.
This discharges everything still held in capacitors etc. in the circuit
Yes. I checked the lock manual and it says that you hold the Schlage button on the keypad while disconnecting the battery pack. I believe if you keep holding it down, it will discharge the capacitor. I plugged in afterwards but did not initialize(activate) the lock until I confirmed the record in the SmartStart App was pending and there was no records in the Zwave Details page(after Reseting Zwave Mesh).
Thank you JTP!
You can also remove the hinge pins from the door and carry the door to your Hub. That way, you don't have to disassemble the lock from the door. That's what I did.
FYI, the reason for this necessity for close proximity pairing is that the Schlage locks go into a low power "whisper" mode during pairing so that a threat actor would have a harder time snooping on the key pair exchange during pairing. Not sure if this is a real threat, but that's the stated reason.
These guys make great security locks...but they have been some of the least responsive devices in my network. I have 4 of then. Connectivity doesn't seem to be the issue since 2 are in direct line of sight of the hub surrounded by z-wave repeaters (light switches in my case).
I have to basically use do/while rules that run for 4 iterations on all of them to assure, they respond. I don't blame Hubitat for this...I had the same issue with Homeseer. Sadly, the one thing that needs to be 100% is a lock.
There's a "Lockdown" app that can handle forcing the doors to lock.
It does the repeat/refresh/etc. to ensure they get locked.
Ya, I tried that a while back. I can't seem to remember right now why it didn't behave as I wanted...but have a fairly low failure rate right now just using the while loop...followed by a notification of success or failure.
I've been doing automation for about a decade and simply can't believe the industry is still so flaky.
Schlage Z-Wave locks (Connect, Camelot, Century) use an internal antenna paired with "whisper mode" for, requiring the hub to be within 2-4 inches during initial, secure pairing. IF PAIRING THROUGH/VIA A ZWAVE EXTENDER/REPEATER THAN THE REPEATER MUST BE 2-4 INCHS FROM THE LOCK DURING PAIRING/INCLUSION MODE (a Zooz ZAC38 can operate out of an electrical outlet because it has an internal battery. That allows you to put it 2-4 inches away during the inclusion process.
NOTE, that the Schlage lock tends to “stick” to whatever device the inclusion process was created with. Meaning that if you use a repeater, it will stick to that repeater and nothing else. If you use the Hub for inclusion, it will stick to that only. If you successfully include via a hub (2-4 inches away) and then you move the hub 15 feet or more away, then the radio in the Schlage will not be able to reach it anymore (IT IS A WEAK RADIO). If you then try to put a repeater in the path, even if the repeater is on top of the lock, it will not work…..because you originally paired the lock directly to the hub. So, if you want the hub further away or in another room, you’ll have to pair via an extender/repeater. Again, I like the zooz zac38 because it has an internal battery that lets you get right on top of the lock during inclusion. After successful inclusion to the Repeater, you can put the repeater in an outlet that is VERY CLOSE by the lock. I tried a hundred variations and it is only with the above guidelines that I got my Schlage BE469ZP to work to my Hub. Hope this helps.

