Just using these as an example, looks like 6 lights at 40w each:
Barrina LED Shop Light, 40W 5000LM 5000K, 4FT Integrated Fixture, V Shape,T8 Light Tube, Daylight White, Clear Cover, Hight Output, LED Shop Lights for Garage Warehouse Workshop Basement (Pack of 6) https://a.co/d/2Lz2WHU
I know, for example, my Zooz switches have a max load of 150w LED (but I don’t understand why it’s so low?) meanwhile if I hook these up to a smart plug, 240 total watts @ 120v, I should be WELL within even a 10a smart plug… right? (I’m also thinking of doubling this up so 12 lights with each 6set going through a different smart plug - a “left” and “right” side of garage)
Am I missing anything? Anything else to consider?
One thing I still need to think about is I have a ceiling outlet I’d want to use although my garage opener is plugged into that, so combined I might hit some max loads.
Which specific Zooz device are you talking about?
Also, with LED lights, we often purchase lights based on the lumen output equivalent to an incandescent light. A 60 watt equivalent LED light will consume 8-9 watts.
Based on the description of the lighting you are ordering, I believe each tube pulls an actual 40 watts as the output is 5000 lumens. A similar size fluorescent tube will produce about half that output.
A 10 amp switch is rated for a 10 amp resistive load. An LED lighting load is much different than a resistive load, so you need to abide by the specifications of the switch. While the LED lights might only pull 240W while in continuous service, the startup surge current is significantly higher. According to this web site, the inrush current can be 100 times the run current. Thus, your 240 watts of lighting might only pull 0.2 amps when running, they might pull 20 amps at startup. If possible you might want to split the lighting into two circuits and use two switches, one of which turns on a few seconds after the 1st so they do not overload the wiring.