While the hub is in General Exclusion mode, you must follow the device manufacturer's instructions to complete the exclusion process.
Since you still have a working Iris hub... do these devices still respond to commands from Iris? You can use the Iris 'remove device' functionality to perform the exclusion of z-wave devices as well. Again, you must still follow each device's specific instructions to complete the exclusion process. Also, Iris has a General Exclusion mode as well that you can use if you already "Force Removed" these devices from Iris.
Zigbee devices usually have a factory reset procedure that you can use to get them ready to pair with a new hub. Again, the process varies by product so you have to find the manual for each device to see what the procedure is.
Thanks for all the suggestions and attempts to help. This is just not the system for me - too much work. I have emailed support on return, but supsect that it is a 100 dollar lesson in going with the more user friendly device.
Iris is notorious for not properly completing exclusion on Z-Wave device. If the switches still think they’re connected to a hub, you’re going to have these issues no matter which system you switch to. I’m not trying to advocate for Hubitat in any way, just looking out for you and what you’re going to run into in the future.
THanks - I guess I will buy all new switches with the Iris credit - I am getting back about 650 and I only need the most basic functionality. Ill buy new and go with something like the samsung smart things.
burke182 - I'm not sure I have followed your entire experience. I certainly feel your frustration.
Depending on the size of your environment and what other devices you have (or want to have), you might want to look at Lutron.
SmartThings is not going to "fix" a bad Z-Wave mesh nor will it "fix" Z-Wave devices that have not been excluded from their previous home. BTW - getting the Z-Wave devices excluded from SmartThings was the hardest part of my transition over to Hubitat.
I bring up Lutron because it eliminates the Z-Wave "issues" and it runs on a frequency that is less prone to interference. The pairing and removal of devices is simple and reliable. It is a "closed" ecosystem meaning is supports only Lutron devices. Other devices can be integrated through other hubs or services (Hubitat, SmartThings, Alexa, Google Home/Assistant, etc.).
Lutron's Caseta Pro is limited to 50 devices and an advertised 30 foot range. It supports switches, dimmers, some fan controls, and some types of shades. It integrates very nicely with Hubitat (and also with SmartThings). Hubitat can support multiple Lutron Caseta Pro hubs to help overcome the limit on the number of devices as well as the range limitation.
I am now running a hybrid environment with my lighting switches and dimmers (mostly) on Lutron using two Lutron Caseta Pro hubs and everything else runs on or is integrated with Hubitat.
Since you have to move off of Iris, I thought I would throw out an alternative for your consideration.
Sorry to see you head to Smartthings but totally understand the decision. Moving zwave devices to a new system is a PITA even for seasoned HA folks sometimes.
If you plan to buy new equipment and start from scratch, I would consider purchasing equipment that is compatible with both systems. I'm not going to disparage ST, but there are reasons MANY of us are smartthings refugees. With that in mind, it's always good to have the option to switch back if that is your ultimate decision.
Just my 2 cents.
PS. +1 for Lutron Caseta devices. They work really well on both systems...but they are outstanding on Hubitat.
thanks - so what is the best way to work through the PITA stuff for a non-experienced HA person? I had one switch connected and one wifi bulb was starting to connect. Ive tried the exclusion (assuming im doing it right) Ive tried flipping the breakers to no avail. If I shut down the IRIS and then buy new switches (ZWave) will that work? Cost is not that much - there are only 5 or 6 that were on the IRIS and I put them all in myself. My hope is to have hubitat so that I can control some lights when I am traveling (to give the appearence that someone is home) and then add something like nest or simplysafe to replace the camera's and sensors that I had on IRIS.
First of all, flipping breakers is not going to do anything at all, doing that is completely useless and a waste of time. Not sure what you were hoping to accomplish by doing that. Honestly, if that's what you are doing then it doesn't matter which system you try out, you will just be frustrated with all of them.
When doing exclusion, if you never saw any type of message that a device was actually excluded then it didn't work. Not sure how Iris or even hubitat handles exclusion, but with my experience with smartthings, you have to exclude one device at a time. Once you get the excluded successful message I had to exit out of exclusion (on smartthings), and then re-enter it to exclude the next device.
Also, for whatever reason Hubitat will only be able to discover ONE z-wave device at a time. No matter what you do, it will not find another. You have to exit out of device search and then start a new search to find a second device.
Just make note, if you never excluded the device in the first place, no amount of messing with it will get it to be found on a new hub. You HAVE to exclude it first. If you just want to pay for new switches so you don't have to exclude any of them then that works too.But exclusion is just the same process as including anyway.
I've heard reports of brand new devices needing to be excluded as well, so buying new may or may not solve the problem, regardless of which hub he goes with.
I'll be happy to trade my < 1 year old SmartThings hub for your new Hubitat hub. I'll even throw in my old Lutron Caseta hub, which I had to replace with two Caseta Pro hubs when I passed the 50 device limit.
BTW - Another +1 for the Caseta stuff. They cost $50 or so for each dimmer (in-wall or external), and they all come with a Pico remote. These are incredibly versatile and work even when your internet connection (or SmartThings service) is down, which was often enough to be annoying when I was using SmartThings.
I have honestly never had to exclude a brand new device before including it. But you are correct, most manufacturers actually say if it fails to include then you need to try an exclude first.
With GE switches I've had to do that on more than once occasion. My theory is that during QA testing they pair it to a factory test set and for whatever the exclusion process didn't complete at the end.
I also use Aeon minimotes to exclude devices that have this issue, which is a very handy device to have.
If all you need is light switch control, I would recommend getting a Lutron Caseta PRO hub and caseta switches (needs to be the Pro version). The integration with HE is fantastic and the devices themselves are the most well built and reliable that I've used. It will also work with smartthings (but will be cloud based of course) but on HE you get the benefits of local control and the ability to use the pico remote to do almost anything your imagination can think of.
Also, Lutron switches won't require exclusion and inclusion if you change ecosystems. You only need to connect the Lutron hub and done.
If you are having trouble with excluding them, for many device,s its easier just to factory reset. It's no longer important to exclude from your Iris hub.
What devices are you trying to work with ? We may be able to help with the factory reset
This is bad information. Most devices do not have a factory reset that is separate from an exclude. In all the z-wave switches I have, the exclude IS the factory reset. If you don't exclude them, they are not reset.
Actually I am afraid I have to differ. Most z-wave mains powered devices do have a factory reset procedure for exactly this reason. Problems can occur when a ghost device is left on an old hub - with that hub. Resetting the device and including in a new mesh is entirely approriate if there are problems in exclusion.
Mike Maxwell has recommended this on several occasions and I certainly found this useful when transferring from older hubs. On what basis do you state "this is bad information"?
I am using a Fibaro universal sensor with some ds18b20 sensors. You can connect up to 4 such sensors to one device, There is a new version called the implant which looks interesting.
