Based on the app instructions I’m not sure if you need a Rasberry Pi as an intermediary or If this can be done directly via Hubitat?
If it can, what modifications to the posted instructions above need to occur?
I see device references in the silent voice command. Im guessing those are customized for each device? and If so is there some kind of edit replace command that can update the code for each device? I tried copying the code to a word doc and that didn’t work. I’m guessing Windows Notepad is a good way to handle that.
Also, is there a way to verify that Google Home has acted in the command or is that part of the app?
We need more information as to what you're smuggling with.
What type of device are you trying to integrate and what do you want it to do?
The OP is about a Smart Life or Tuya based switch. @SmartHomePrimer mentions getting in via Google Assistant Relay.
I recommended just replacing the firmware without doing any soldering.
I want to control automation on Google Home through an HE user app via Google Assistant Silent commands.
First several Koolertron smart outlets for Christmas.
When I click the link above and copied here:
It is an Outside App to silently control Google Assistant.
It also references using a Raspberry Pi
I want to silently control devices connected to Google Home via Google Assistant.
When I read the documentation it appears you need to use a Raspberry Pi and you would need to change your "Silent Commands" to match what you have assigned them in Google Home.
In order of confusion:
Do I need a Raspberry Pi for that app to work with HE or does it work on HE or can I use an always on PC? If a PC, any differences between using a Raspberry Pi that I should be aware of?
Would a simple edit and replace work for updating device names throughout the app or do you just edit certain words that reference the device?
Once I have an idea on how to start, I'll reply back with what I needed to do for the next guy or possibly have to ask another question.
Thanks in advance.
I had just started following links and reading the topic knowing where I wanted to go but not realizing that without someone else doing the same the question becomes opaque.
This looks identical to my outdoor 3-relay outlet that I flashed to Tasmota using Tuya-Convert. Very straight forward process that does require a Raspberry Pi. Perhaps it can work on another Linx computer with Lan and WiFi but it's designed for Pi.
In reference to Assistant Relay:
Yes a Pi would be required or some Linux instance.
I have tried to get Assistant Relay working multiple times.
I'm sure it's trivial to some but I've failed at some point in the setup each time.
I've never got as far as using the app unfortunately.
This is just my opinion, there are many opinions on this forum as there are on others, I think the path of least resistance is converting the firmware to Tasmota using Tuya-Convert. (This probably does void the warranty but freedom from the cloud is more important to me.
There are Tasmota drivers that I had working with my 3-relay outdoor switch when I was using Hubitat more. it all worked fine and was local. The Assistant Relay depends on the cloud and many more moving parts for reliable control of your loads, just keep that in mind if you go that route.
I just flashed 4 Smart Life based outlets two nights ago in a matter of 30 minutes, 15 minutes was just getting the swing of it.
Thanks Keith for the insight and I may circle back to that solution.
I've conceded I'll end up using either Google or Amazon. With voice, Google Assistant was my strategic choice. Apparently, HE can play nice with Google Assistant per above which basically means that anything Google Home can control, I can control without voice (silent) via Hubitat. So HE and Assistant combined could provide great functionality.
While other uses have come up with a HE to Assistant relay solution using a Raspberry Pi, I heretofore have tried to integrate as directly as possible with Hubitat. My computer engineer son will be home for Thanksgiving and can bring me up to speed on some basic Linux functionality (by far his OS of choice).
If anyone out there has a direct Hubitat interface that can speak "Google Assistant" silently via a relay app please let me/us know? I'd even be interested in a paid plug in with Hubitat working on a revenue share deal with Google to keep it updated. Currently Google doesn't seem as "closed" minded as others.
I just might be back for the info on converting the firmware to Tasmota using Tuya-Convert but I'm viewing the relay as a solution for other products as well with HE to make the Scene scenarios virtually unlimited.
Good luck.
Hopefully he or you will be more fruitful than myself. Get back to me if you want to go the Tuya-Convert route. I’ll gladly walk you through it.
There are options for this. They range from Raspberry Pi, to Docker, to Linux computers. Anything the can run Node.js should work. That’s really what is needed. I run my Google Assistant Relay on an old MacBook Pro, and was using an old 2010 MacBook before that.
Hi Keith. I want to register my devices in HE, then reference them in Google Home so I can control them by voice. I'm not concerned about the link to the cloud via Google Assistant. Does converting the firmware to Tasmota allow a device to be directly registered into HE?
Hey guys,
I've recently joined and have a similar issue. I'd like my somfy altus blinds controlled by Hubitat. Hubitat can not control them but I did find a conexoon module that integrates with Google and somfy blinds. Is there anyway I can get Hubitat to control the blinds?
Appreciate any help you can provide.
Disclaimer: I don’t have the Somfy Altus blinds. However, I do have 6 Somfy Glydea RTS drapery motors (one pair of drapes operates as a Somfy “group” and moves in tandem, so, really, 5 independent devices). From what I see in the Somfy documentation, the Somfy Altus blinds are RTS as well.
Given that, there are several approaches with Hubitat.
Somfy Z-Wave RTS Interface (#1811265) (“ZRTSI”). There are a couple of user-contributed drivers. I have used the one by Justin Walker (@augoisms), it works fine. An issue is that it is Z-Wave non-Plus using a Z-Wave series 300 chip, which matters to some. That’s why I no longer use it, all of my devices are Z-Wave Plus. You can get these on eBay, I believe I paid about $100 USD. Be aware that there are two models, be sure to get the one with 16 channels (Somfy # 1811265).
Somfy myLink interface (#1811403), which is WiFi to RTS, supports 16 RTS channels. There is an older myLink “legacy” interface (#1811403 - yep, same part number) that only supports 5 RTS channels, that I would avoid. You can get these on eBay, I believe I paid about $140 USD. There is a Hubitat community driver for this, too, ported from SmartThings. It’s a little cumbersome to set up, but works fine, and is what I use.
Bond Bridge - I haven’t used this, but there are several community members who have and who prefer this solution. I understand that there is a Hubitat community driver.
One problem with the Somfy RTS controllers and Somfy RTS devices is that the range is limited to about 30 feet. I don’t know if the Bond hub addresses this issue with a better antenna or better transmitter. The way I solved this was to add a couple of Somfy RTS Repeaters (#1810791 ) to our home. You can get these on eBay, I believe I paid about $100 USD.
Another problem with the Somfy RTS system (seen by any solution) is that it is a “write only” interface to the drapes/blinds. There is no way to interrogate the drapes/blinds and determine the position. As long as they are only controlled from Hubitat, that’s not an issue. However, if you also have wall-mounted Somfy Decoflex switches, or the handheld Telis remotes, etc, to control the drapes/blinds, then the Hubitat driver won’t have any idea what the current position is. Long story short, all you can do is send “Up” (open), “Down” (close), and “Stop”. If “Stop” is sent to drapes that are not moving, then the drapes move to “my favorite position”, a pre-set position. Perhaps the Altus blinds support this as well.
Thanks @672southmain. Disclaimer I am new to this.
What is the issue with point 1. I.e using z wave non plus? What does the plus actually mean. Also how do i use code others have written?
Thanks again. Much appreciated
This point has been discussed extensively in this forum. It’s not productive to re-hash all the excellent points that have been cogently made. In short, the routing and repair algorithms are superior in Plus, additional command protocols make communication more reliable, and make your mesh more resilient.
You can also use Hubitat Package Manager, an excellent user-contributed app by Dominick Meglio (@dman2306), to install and manage updates to your user-contributed code:
Thank you for taking the time to respond. I appreciate how frustrating it is to have people ask questions for things that have been discussed before. Thanks again will try and avoid it going forward
I wasn’t frustrated at all. Please keep asking questions, curiosity is good. I just wanted you to understand that, when I answered briefly, it wasn’t a put down. You can search the forum if you want a more complete answer.
And welcome to the community, we are glad you are here.
