Damn, 11W dimmables in most rooms. So it's either higher wattage bulbs or a bypass then!
Can you get to the wiring above the lights (If using spots for instance) as a samotech SM309 will fit through the hole, it does require a neutral, but you will have one at the first light and where the cable to the light switch is connected to the lighting circuit. Also these work best with a push button rather than a toggle switch, but if you use the switch rarely then you can just leave it off but connected, then turn on off to turn on and on off to turn off. on and hold to adjust dim then off when set.
They dim LED's really well right down to off with no flicker.
Scrap what I said it's 10W if PF is less than 0.9 it's 20W if you have a slave.
When they brought them out I was surprised. I hate rotary dimmers 
much prefer push to make.
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I know what you mean, but there are limited options with no neutral and 25mm back boxes. I recently installed 4 lightwaverf dimmers thinking they'd be the solution, they're terrible! Hard to use and don't work with HE. I was planning to do Shelly dimmer modules with retractive switches but with 2 kids under 5, can't find the time. The Aurora's should be easy to fit and more importantly, intuitive, so I don't need to train visitors how to turn the light on!
I'm assuming 2 core cable at the switch? You could just install a dimmer at the main light then use the switch line down to the switch as a switch line for the device. There is a ZigBee dimmer that is supported that could go in the ceiling box then job done. Grab a nice retractive switch and put it on the end. Also Aurora have some ZigBee input switches planned apparently 
Yeah no neutral. I'll see how the Aurora goes, if it doesn't suit then i'll just have to go with Shelly modules.
I'm not that keen on the idea of standard retractive switches, I don't think they're very intuitive, eg press once for on, hold for dim down, hold again for dim up. I've had a 3 postition retrractive switch ready to try with a Shelly Dimmer module for a while but they keep delaying the release. The 3 position restractive switch would mean the Shelly module would need to go behind the switch as it needs 2 wires from switch to module.
But you can make them work with HE.
I have 7 dimmers and 4 sockets working ok.
Pain to set up but once you've got it all set up they work ok.
I have the Gen 2 version (smart series), not Gen 1. Either way the switch itself doesn't work well, you need to hold the button down for several seconds before any change.
100% agree, in the controls industry we only tell people to install centre off for that reason, unfortunately alot of the dimmers out there (especially if not all of ZigBee ones) only have the single input. The Fibaro ones do but the 2nd input can be used for something else in my case the ZigBee lamp in the room so that was a better option.
I really rate the click stuff as a electrician, that's what I have in my house. Although I stick to their "mini grid" range.
? Are they WiFi?
The Fibaro and the Shelly both have 2 inputs so you can use them with a 3 position retractive switch, i've checked with Shelly and they said it would work.
Yeah, and cost less than £20, support for Huibitat is coming directly from them apparently. And they handle 10W without needing a bypass module.
Can't remember why I chose the gridpro over the minigrid, might have been that they only sold the plates in packs of 20. I only got the 1 to try out though, why do you prefer the minigrid?
To be honest the gridpro is a new range so not looked at it much. But the mini grid range has been around for years and there is masses of options /mid ranges within them my switches are the mini grid DECO range because i don't like flat plate.
I have just purchased the Aone single zig bee dimmer and it connects to Hubitat fine. The problem i am having is that the light fitting has x3 candle bulbs and when i put in x3 dimmable LED bulbs which are 4w each (equivalent to 40w each) they just flash continuously! If i put 2 in it seems ok, do i need a specific bulb to work with these? I am in the UK.
They are funny with led s you need to put bigger wat bulbs in mine has 5 x 5w gu10 and works ok, had 3w in and flashed
Thanks thought this might be the case! Aurora came back with this:
*You need a minimum load of 20w if you are using one dimmer on its own. *
If the lamps have a power factor 0.9 or greater than 10w will be fine however if they are flashes this means they are probably not 0.9pf
My light has x3 bulbs which say max wattage of Halogen 46w alternative max led 5.5w or filament 60w or energy saver 9w.
Do you think x3 5.5w will be enough as sounds like Aurora are saying it needs to be 20w?
Its a guess due to the mystic of calculating power factor and different manufacturers.
You can try (could you repourpos them if no good) but to be safe id be looking around the 7-8w range, its a dimmer so you don't have to have them at 100%
Aurora have come back and said I will be ok if I use the 46w dimmable halogen, so going to give 3 of them a try. This also meets the recommendations on the light fitting.
If this works just need to see if the LED strips will work which I’m looking at using in my kitchen with the same dimmer module!
Would a Fibaro bypass (or something like it) do the trick.
I haven't used one but I know they are used to stop flickering of low power bulbs/leds etc.
I use the Fibaro bypass successfully on low powered LED's. 4/5 have stopped flickering. The other I had to reduce the brightness down to 60% to stop the bulb flashing constantly.
I only use in wall modules (Fibaro and Qubino) for my normal lights. I much prefer the Qubino's as the Fibaro's can be a real pain in the rear at times, but haven't bothered replacing them all yet. Also, the Qubino's are slimmer and easier to fit. For the Fibaro's I had to fit deeper back boxes.
My 46w halogen bulbs fitted today have worked a treat with this dimmer switch 
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