Side note: one of the biggest device issues I have right now--is that the "dual controlled/dual outlet" dimmers and switches seem to have some sort of "race" condition. When they both change or are refreshed at the same time--the status for the "first" child device doesn't get reflected back to the hub (it seems the second child stomps on that status update).
They are super sweet for controlling various "plug in" devices without using every outlet in the room.
It changes what buttons/button sequence you use to put the device in zwave exclusion mode.
It has an interesting side effect of making the button press events come in faster. Can't see how that is on purpose, so I assume it is a firmware "quirk".
I had this issue too, it was driving me crazy. I just installed Botched1's GE drivers and fixed! Even the physical presses are registering now whereas before not working. FYI, I just moved my entire setup from Smartthings to Hubitat this weekend, what an undertaking, slowing getting everything working the way I like it.
I just went through this - The Honeywell switches came in as dual outlets. It was my first day with hubitat, coming over from wink. I know nothing about drivers or how to install them or even where to find them. I tried manually setting the devices to generic Z-Wave, but I was guessing how to do that. I did NOT Configure (didn't know what it was for), and not sure I ever saved the changes :).
But then I excluded and used the QR code scan in the mobile app. After about 15 minutes it showed up as Device 1 - and some kind of generic Z-Wave device, but not a switch. I changed it to Generic Z-Wave smart switch, and saved and then it did not show the outlets (child devices).
I changed another one to Generic Zwave Plus Switch. Then I noticed one had a flash option and the other didn't.
I set them all to PLUS and they all seem to work fine, but not sure if I am missing out on something by using a wrong driver...
Is there instructions anywhere on how to use alternate drivers/files ? I have a Schlage Z-Wave (not plus) lock that I am going to have to deal with - and I am pretty scared at the moment.
Hubitat is frustrating, until you figure where things are and how they are done - then it is really powerful - I really like it much better than Wink.
For the most part, no. I would use the driver that works the best. The only downside I have seen is that if you (for example) use a switch driver instead of an outlet driver, you might have to use switch template on a dashboard. Or Alexa might think it is the wrong type of device. But typically, it isn't a big deal to change drivers.
I am not sure what you mean by that exactly? You can choose any driver, but if you pick an incorrect one the device typically just fails to work, or work correctly. Maybe in a worst case scenario you bombard the Z-wave device with signals it isn't expecting and make the network non-responsive. The logs would probably show that though.
Now if you are talking about community based drivers, there is just 1-2 more steps to load the driver into Hubitat, then you can use it just like the built-in drivers from the dropdown box in the settings page.
If you clarify the question, maybe we can be more specific.
There is a built-in driver for this device, it should work fine. You will almost definitely have to do a couple things to make this work.
First is to completely factory reset the lock.
The next is you may have to exclude it first before attempting to include the lock.
Last thing is you WILL have to pair the lock quite close to the hub. Either bring the lock to the hub (some crazy people even moved the whole door!) or hub to the lock using a long ethernet cord. These non-plus locks use whisper mode to pair, this is a very low power mode and you cannot pair these in place.
If these are Z-Wave Plus Honeywell switches/dimmers I would highly recommend you use these drivers...the drivers say "GE" but Jasco GE/Honeywell/UltraPro dimmers/switches all use the same driver. The drivers enable up to 6 virtual buttons on the switches (tap, double tap, triple tap), and can speed up status reporting.
Dimmer:
Switch:
Read the first post in each thread for info/advice about settings.
See my post in this thread here for specific instructions on pairing the Schlage. I have the same lock, non-Plus Z-Wave, and it works perfectly on HE.
Add the lock to your hub last, after you have added all other Z-Wave devices, and ensure you have beaming repeaters (Z-Wave light switches, Z-Wave repeaters) between your lock and your hub.
Thankyou for the reply. My question about the drivers was really how to use "community" drivers - but I finally found that in the documentation.
one piece I don't understand is, what is the configure button for? If I change to a different driver, do I have to configure? Or is that only for specific features of the device itself, - life if I want the indicator light to be on when the switch is on, or Off when the switch is on? As I type this, I realize that is probably the answer.
You also said my Schlage lock should work fine with the existing driver... I thought I read they are not officially supported any more, so does that mean that there is not a built in driver for Schlage? Do I need to use a generic Lock driver? Yes, I realize I can just try it and see, but I don't want to wipe out the existing codes with a reset and then have it not work.
If it's a Honeywell Z-Wave Plus switch or dimmer, you should be able to use that driver. I have never checked model numbers, every Honeywell and UltraPro (and GE) Z-Wave Plus dimmer or switch I have is running very nicely on those two drivers.
I particularly like the fact that his driver allows you to change a dimmer into a switch. Allows me to only purchase dimmers and then put them to use on any light(s) I want to. So I never have situation where I need to buy a switch 'cause I only have dimmers.
Just to clarify - you don't need to ID the specific models unless you are just generally curious. All you really need to know is if the switch is Z-Wave Plus or Z-Wave. I have installed all three types (GE, Honeywell, UltraPro) Z-Wave Plus switches over the past few years, and they all work w/the drivers I provided the links for.
Z-Wave Plus dimmers/switches inClusters data should start/include, as @neonturbo indicates 0X5E:
It asks the device for it's capabilities. Then the driver can understand what (in this case) the outlet can do. Your example of the indicator light is a good one, but it could be other basic things that make the device work correctly.
Yes, it is a good habit to do so, and may be required in many cases to make things work.
They were supported at one time. The locks were so problematic, they were causing a support nightmare. They removed these from the compatible list, but did not remove the driver. In fact, I think there has even been an updated driver since it was removed from the official list.
There IS an built-in Schlage driver. It should detect it correctly. You probably don't want the generic driver.
You can sort of tell by the InClusters. If it had a 0X25 in the cluster it would be an older Z-wave device, with 0X5E it is a Z-wave Plus.
I usually google the DeviceID number and see if it comes up. The better way is probably to pull the switch and look at the numbers. The number on the face of the switch can often also help ID it, and that is pretty easy and safe as you just have to pull the decorative plate.
I suspect this IS a Enbrighten due to being a Z-wave plus, and that it supports S2 security.
This part is incorrect. Cluster 0x25 simply means the device supports the binary switch command class. So any zwave or zwave+ device that is a binary switch will have this inCluster.
For example, here’s a binary zwave+ switch that has this inCluster:
Well I'm here for the Jasco 46562 issue where it shows up as a dual outlet and creates two child devices that don't do anything. The delete button is still greyed out for those child devices. I just installed six of these today, so now I have a lot of extra devices in the list now. If I choose the parent device and ignore the child devices that does appear to work though.
As for the driver, the box claims Z-Wave Plus so I figured they would update status quickly, unlike the old non-Plus GE/Jasco switches I have installed elsewhere. I tried a couple built-in drivers that controlled the device properly, but would not update the status (GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Smart Switch and Generic Z-Wave Plus Switch). For now I'm using the Generic Z-Wave Switch driver and added them to the Z-Wave Poller app so I can get decent status update times.
Can you test if switch can be controlled from the device page? If it can, can you test whether physical control of the switch is mirrored on the device page?
If that does not work, then can you download @JasonJoel's driver described in the thread linked below. Repeat steps 3 and 4 indicated above, but selecting @JasonJoel's driver instead of the built-in driver.
Removing the children worked. The built-in driver didn't work. Switching to @JasonJoel 's driver appears to work well for these. Polling of my old GE/Jasco switches seems to have stopped working right in the process of doing all this though. Guess I'll need to try rebooting and stopping/starting the polling again and hope it's fixed.
Do you have all of your Enbrighten Switches working with @JasonJoel's driver without polling? And if so, have you removed them from the polling app?
If you haven't, you should do that first.
After doing that, do a "Shutdown" from the menu (under Settings), and not a reboot. Then disconnect power - from the wall outlet side and not the hub's microUSB connector. Wait 30 seconds, then power up again.
Finally, how many non-zwave+ switches are you polling?
If they are Z-Wave Plus, then those are good drivers to use for the devices.
I think you know this already from the other thread, but you should only be polling for the older "Z-Wave" devices and not the newer "Z-Wave Plus" versions.
Removing the reconfigured "Enbrighten"-driver devices from the polling list seems to have fixed polling again. I had done a "Stop All Polling" and start again once I removed them and they started updating correctly again. I learned that devices don't get removed from that list automatically even though they aren't using one of the drivers that app requires.
I have 19 of the non-plus dimmers and three non-plus switches.
Yes I'm aware of that. Using the non-plus driver and enabling polling was a stopgap until I had a solution, and that stopgap actually worked with these switches, as suboptimal as it was.
This new driver having double and trip-press unique triggers is useful too. I have some plans for using that in a few rooms.
Just wanted to thank you for your help. I will put the new drivers in some new UltraPro's that I am ordering for a new install location - I want to use the Double Tap feature to try to tie in a second switch, but only "on demand".
I also want to thank you for the encouragement and info on my schlage lock. I got it installed and working. I did not get it working in the Lock Code Manager App - but from reading all the other threads, I am pretty sure its because I added a code at the device itself first (within Hubitat), before I tried lock manager. I think that if I wiped out all of the codes and started over with Lock Manager, it would work. But I needed it to work, so I will try that later. I did put in multiple users from the Device (using Hubitat). THis weekend or next I will start over and see if I can get it to work. I want to be able to set up temporary codes for a dog sitter in the future
Anyway - thanks again, really enjoying Hubitat so far!
