I just setup my Hubitat Elevation and I am looking for guidance on the best way to make everything work how I want it to.
I have Zooz Z Wave Power Outlets connected to all of my window AC units (call them AC A, B, C, D). I have zigbee temp sensors (call them temp A, B, C, D, E) in the rooms with AC and one in an intermediate location. Additionally I have a couple Alexa's that I would like to integrate.
The biggest thing I am looking for is setting up override rules. I have 2 rules set up for AC A. If temp A > X turn on AC A. If temp A < Y and AC A current < Z, turn off AC A (The current rule is to allow the unit to not turn off mid cycle). The same rules are set for ACs and Temps B-D.
I would like a way to override those rules. For instance, If temp E (which is a room between A B and C) is > X, turn on AC A, AC B, and AC C regardless of what their temps say and stay on until temp E < W. Another override would be, if I tell Alexa to turn on AC A, it does so regardless of temp A. Or if I want to disable all of the other rules, tell Alexa turn of all AC and it does so.
Has anyone done a similar setup? What's the best way to accomplish this with Hubitat, if it's even possible?
I got lost in the alphabet soup but I use the advanced v-thermostat manager app to manage my window units. I basically just leave the thermostat on the AC unit all the way down and ECO mode turned off, then I manage it all from a power outlet. I have wondered from time to time if abrumptly shutting off and turning on the compressor is good for the unit but meh. Take a look at the app - I think it will do at least some of what you want.
That's why I have the current rule. I monitored current with the compressor running vs not running and set the rule to only cut power if the current is below the compressor running value. Even on max cool, the units cycle to fan automatically
Modern window A/Cs often run the fan for a short time after turning the compressor off. This is done to cool the compressor. Cutting power abruptly may not be good for the A/Cs.
Because they're dumb units, the fans don't stop. They either run Fan+Compressor or Fan only. I gave it a few minutes for cool down after it detects the lower amperage
I see it has heating setpoint (irrelevant for my case), cooling setpoint, and thermostat threshold. I assume the threshold is how much higher it can get than the cooling setpoint before kicking on and then when it reaches the setpoint it turns off?
I've been controlling a cheap window AC in the manner @brad5 describes for two years now, and the thing still runs fine. Your mileage may vary, of course, and you might destroy your AC. But that method has worked fine for me.
Basically, I have a sensor (Homeseer brand, AC powered multisensor) that updates every minute. It monitors the room temp. When the temp gets to a certain "high point", Hubitat tells a Leviton plugin module to turn on, and that supplies power to the window AC unit. When the room temp gets to a certain low point, Hubitat tells that Leviton switch to turn off. Works like a charm, and I plan to put that AC unit back in this weekend as temps will get to the mid-80's here in Maine. If you do decide to try this, make sure whatever device you use to supply power is rated to handle the power (amps) required by the AC unit.
What app is that? Being able to write if statements may be better. I’m trying vthermostat from above first but I’m not sure I can override how I want to
You guys must all have old mechanical switches on your AC units? Both units bought in the last 10 years have soft switch relays and do not turn on when power is supplied, they go "beep" and wait for input. I use a Broadlink RM Mini3 to turn on/off using IR
I have one like that. The rest are mechanical knobs. If the mechanical knob setup goes well, I may be going broadlink with the one that’s digital. One headache at a time lol
and no it is not a mechanical switches it has buttons and actually comes with a remote.. gotten at home depot but it remembers settings when turned back on luckily
I'm not looking at the unit right now as it's still on a shelf in the garage, awaiting installation (today or tomorrow) but it's only about 2-3 years old, I think it does just have a temp dial and a fan dial if I'm remembering correctly. I purchased it to be used as I described. It wasn't expensive but it's done the job. As noted by others, some units just remember their previous setting and go to that.
If you end up looking at programmable IR remote blasters, consider a SwitchBot HubMini over a BroadLink RMx... Biggest win is that here's a working SwitchBot integration for Hubitat, but none for Broadlink. Plus, I found the range is better and the hub placement-positioning is more forgiving with the SB HubMini versus the BL RM4.
I recently tried both for a couple window fans I need this time of year, and the SB was the clear winner for me.
