Yup. Thought of that and replaced it last week. At this point, this alarm is just to be safe. Good call though.
I like the idea of the ring v2 extender being used. It's cheap, simple, and reliable.
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Is your GCFI rated for the load the pump puts on it - seems like it is not if it's popping when there isn't a "real" event w/the pump motor. Sorry, but still not sure why we'd "band-aid" the GCFI issue w/alerts, and not focus on replacing/upgrading the plug?
Caveat: I'm not the guy to give advice about electonics/electricity, I'm the guy to ask stupid questions and not understand all the answers. 
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It is. The old one I replaced was rated to support the pump, the new one is, and the main breaker in the box was plenty of capacity.
Thanks. Weird...but then I think everything about electricity is weird. 
Typically in the pit is a float.
Normally open as it dangles above the flood line, closing when it tilts by being floated.
Add another tied to any number of contact/relay inputs to alert your HE system.
May not be possible.
Depending on the alarm system, it is possible to piggy back or just tie into HE.
What do you have for a high limit system?
SJE Rhombus?
I know I will receive flack on this but change the GFI or simply replace it with a normal outlet.
Safety: I know GFI will sense leakage current, shutting off the power if this current exceeds some small level. However some devices simply do not work well with GFI's . For instance devices with EMC filtering to ground.
If the sounder is 110V or other voltage you could use a relay to trip a contact sensor that has an external input. That's how I did it. I also install a current sensing relay to monitor the gray water pump running.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNT3L9U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get one of those SwitchBot devices so when the ring v2 senses no power, it can push on the little button to reset the GFCI.
The GFCI tripped for a reason. It's best to find out why.
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Mine was a joke, as I hope the suggestion to just remove it was.
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Many of these are "codeified" required.
Buried in an access to a wet tank may not be the best place.
Codes do not often keep up with the tech of the day.
GFCI in pit, vs GFCI breaker? In dry panel as an example.
Not enough info to tell.
One roach,spider,drop of humidity does not a Hazzard make.
Sewage flowing into a creek, well sort of...
Overload won't tripped the GCFI. That's the circuit breaker's job. He's having a faulty/sensitive GCFI or a leaky pump. I would point toward an imbalance to ground pump causing the trip.
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This is the best suggestion to tie the alarm into Hubitat, IMO. However, the suggestion to find and fix the root cause is also a good one. If there is some type of ground fault occurring, it could eventually get to the point of damaging the pump. Then a reset won't be possible and you could be looking at an emergency pump replacement.
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I know this thread is older, but I just solved this same need before seeing this thread. I thought I would share my solution.
I bought a Liberty float alarm. It has a dry contact on it. I purchased a separate 4 port dry contact relay. I wired the 4 port relay to the Liberty alarm dry contact. I wired a zigbee water sensor and a Moen Flo leak sensor to the 4 port relay by hard wiring them. I have two spare dry contact on the relay. I now have the audio alert from the Liberty alarm, a zigbee alert from the dry contact and the Moen Flo shuts off the house water. I also have a water sensor sitting on the lid of the sewage basin.
In my case the pump predated by purchase of the house. It was not pumping even though it was running. Turns out it was air locked. Not for the typical reason of someone forgetting to drill a hole in the pipe above the pump outlet, but because that hole was plugged with non bio material. I was very lucky that this didn't overflow and I noticed it running long. With the changes I am more comfortable with the setup. I could add more redundancies, but its miles better than what was there previously.
