Well, and heat dissipation. That is often the limiting factor on in-wall smart devices.
Well, I guess that my kitchen isn't done to code.
I put in (my kitchen) a zwave plus outlet that was only 15 amps.
I've always been careful to make sure of what we put into that outlet, but anyway....
The issue is that if there is a fire (God Forbid), the fire marshals will be there to figure out what overheated, etc. Then the insurance won't pay out, and there will be all sorts of issues....
I just read an old thread on ST where jdroberts mentioned that part of it has to do with GFCI, as GFCI needs to cut all voltage to the socket, rendering GFCI outlets a bit incompatible with Z protocols, as they need standby current to operate....
Thats not to say you can't have a 20 amp z protocol outlet, it just can't go on a GFCI circuit....which means it can't go in the Kitchen. Grrrr.
S.
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If you can access the circuit before it reaches the receptacle you could use a Zen16 and have a 20A TP GFI in the kitchen.
here is a 15 amp tapmer proof zwave plus.. i dont know of 20 , most circuits only are 15.
IO use the switch version of this (prior zwave version) to turn on off my roof coils based on temp..
i am replacing it with the zwave plus version shortly.
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That;s what I put in my kitchen.
However, for a client, I must do only "according to code".....
(Maybe I shouldn't have put it in....)
Yeah, I was thinking that. I wonder if you could get away with a recessed box in the wall cavity in the back of one of the cabinets (like a pony panel with the Zen 16 in it), and do split receptacles, with the Zen 16 controlling the bottom receptacle of a couple outlets. If you were using a GFCI breaker....
I dunno.
S.
does the circuit need to be 20 . what about replacing the breaker with 15.. then it would be up to code..
also at least this is power monitoring and is actually rated to 1800w you could at least alert if it exceeds it.
So, if he's building new...then as I recall Code says 20 amps. Subsequently modifying the breaker and putting in a 15 amp breaker and outlets would work, but you'd have to change all outlets on that circuit, and if you ever resold the house, you'd almost certainly have to "fix" it.
Plus, if you plugged in a kettle or other high current device, or 2, you just might trip the breaker.
S.
I personally would want the 20A in the kitchen. I wouldn't give others anything less.
Curious, what is the planned purpose for the Z-Wave control? Could an (ugly) wall module work?
2 - 20A GFI circuits are minimum for countertops. I'm not sure about the TP requirement (it is a req't). When my house was built (circa 1995) it was permissible to use 15A receptacles (w/20A pass-thru) for these circuits and that's what the builder put in. When I remodeled about 12yrs ago I put in 20A (non smart) to be sure.
A Z-Wave device can work on a GFI circuit, I have that set up for my pool pump. 20A GFI circuit breaker to a GE 40A smart switch to the pump and (knock on wood) it's been working fine for years.
If there is a 20A TP Smart receptacle then you should be able to satisfy the GFI requirement by putting in GFI circuit breakers.
After a little research it is still permissible to use 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit provided that there are at least 2... So, you should be able to use a 20A GFI circuit breaker with 15A Tamperproof smart receptacles if you want.
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At risk of sounding flippant, I would install code-compliant dumb outlets, and then plug some Ikea Tradfri outlets into those that need to be controlled. Or, install "Sonoff Basic" Wifi relays that have been flashed with Tasomta to make them "compatible" with a Hubitat system, and put the Sonoff into the device itself.
Most kitchen outlets are ad-hoc anyway, and don't want to be "controlled", they just want to be "always on" so one can plug in a mixer, or a toaster, or a bat-o-matic blender... (see https://youtu.be/iKllBHvpZcE ) whatever appliance one is using.
The best automation in my kitchen has been my friend since I was a young boy - a Sunbeam T-35 toaster (see http://automaticbeyondbelief.org ) a miracle of engineering skill, made entirely from bi-metal bars and a very interested waveguide type heat sensor.
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It doesn't sound flippant at all - I'm probably going to end up doing that, because there are no Zigbee/Zwave outlets that are 20 amp - end of story.
In other words, there is no choice in this matter.
Late to the game -- there's this, but I haven't had any luck finding it anywhere...
Powertech M9P204 Smart In-wall 20A Outlet (ZigBee)
https://www.power-tech.com.tw/en/smartpower.php?id=36&product=Smart_In-wall_20A_Outlet_(ZigBee)_M9P204%20|%20Powertech
There's the Sonoff POW3 device (but it's WiFi and not ZWave or ZigBee)
Also not sure of it's support within HE. I use a couple of these but via MQTT.
This is probably too late for you, but this outlet with a z-wave module will do what you want:
20A, tamper-proof, and z-wave
https://www.swidget.com/outlets/swidget-20a-outlet/
That zigbee outlet was never sold, but you could use the Swidget outlet linked to above because Hubitat supports z-wave as well.
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As a matter of fact, today, I just installed 2 Kitchen Outlets at one of my daughter's home. They were 15A Sinope Zigbee outlets, tamper proof, UL, but not 20amp, GFCI.
The only thing that she doesn't like about the outlet is that the "button" that turns on the controlled outlet is tiny.
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