I need a 20 amp, tamper proof, zigbee or zwave outlet, that's UL approved (or CSA).
Anybody have any suggestions?
I need a 20 amp, tamper proof, zigbee or zwave outlet, that's UL approved (or CSA).
Anybody have any suggestions?
https://byjasco.com/products/ge-z-wave-plus-direct-wire-indooroutdoor-smart-switch-40a
Not sure I would call it "tamper proof" though.
It's got to be an outlet I can put in a box in the kitchen...
tamper proof (or resistant) has a specific definition in the electrical code...
Gotcha, I don't know of one (don't think there is one) rated for 20A.
I see the symbol in the bottom left. Is that zwave plus?
There's no radio in that unit.
I'd love a code compliant 20Amp Zigbee or Zwave+ in wall outlet. But for whatever reason, I don't think they exist.
I wonder if there's something like a Qubino that'll work?
S.
No, it has an audible trip alarm, thats a speaker symbol.
Sorry I led you astray.... saw the icon and thought it was Z-Wave.
I've been told by the electrician, that in this new house that I'm working on, the outlets on the counter in the kitchen must be 20amp, and tamper proof.
I nearly had a fit.
I don't know of any smart outlets like that!!!!
Thats true by code, I read that when I remodeled my kitchen. At least the 20Amp part, I don't remember the TR. I think it has to be a GFCI circuit or outlets as well. By code.
So, what did you do? Did you put anything smart in?
My kitchen counters are the least automated part of my house. I have smart light switches and under cabinet lights. And 1 15 amp plug that got sucked into the far left side of one of the counteracts as the counter grew out there, but nothing else.
Frustrating.
It does, although it can be done with a GFCI breaker (with GFCI labels on the outlets) instead of individual GFCI outlets in most local code.
There are no GFCI or 20A in-wall smart outlets.
I would check the need for a 20 amp outlet as opposed to a 15 amp outlet on an 20 amp circuit.
I'm pretty sure it specified 20amp outlets. Min 12 gauge wiring. Mostly because of small appliances like toaster ovens I'm sure.
Even then you need to be careful about plugging things like microwaves, toasters, and blenders/mixers into smart outlets. Not saying it can't be done, but some can take it - and some can't.
Good point. Lots of motors and high resistive loads in a kitchen. Still annoying.
I kind of suspect the larger gauge wiring and terminals leave little room for electronics...so no 20 Amp outlets!
S