Up and running, let's see what it's like - I shall report back!
Is the same thing possible for the wireless wall switch? That's the one that seems to become particularly slow, but being a sleepy battery device I guess it's not so straightforward.
It already does what it can for that, it is not the same thing, but it is what it can be.
EDIT: @andydvsn
Mine do not get to be slow at all, so I wouldn't say that this is expected. Might still be some optimization you can do with your mesh.
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Hi Markus, how's things? what's the difference between D1 and the older version?
also, just wondering how far you are with the driver as I'm definitely interested in getting them. They're a lot cheaper than the older version. thanks
The D1 are supposedly ZB3.0, but not 100% certain they are fully compliant, but they do work well with HE.
The driver for Aqara Wall Switches already have support for them 
So far only tested with the 2-button model, but if there is a difference with the others it will be minor and an easy fix.
Now that my C-7 hub has arrived I've settled on having a 'security' mesh powered by AlertMe gear and other completely battery-backed devices, plus a secondary 'accessories' mesh running from the C-5, where all the gear that wouldn't be controllable during a power outage anyway can live. Plus, that network can take care of the super-reliable but "destructive" QBKG03LM and QBKG04LM wired switches, which kick many other endpoints off the mesh.
I took the opportunity to verify that they do really, really do that - and they do, even to their cousins, the WXKG range of Xiaomi buttons and switches. At first they perform perfectly, then half an hour later they start losing messages, then after an hour or two they are incommunicado. Thankfully the IKEA Trådfri lamps and repeaters appear to have no issues at all coexisting with them, so that's also going to be the home for most of my Trådfri kit from now on.
I'll obviously stick to the AlertMe gear on this thread, but just to report that Hub Link works very well indeed for controlling the C-5 from the C-7 (and vice versa when required). Impressed.
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Hi all,
Found this via the old forum. I just discovered 2x SPG100 and one Nano-Hub HUB300. DOes anyone want these for the cost of postage (or free pickup from Brum, UK)?
Cheers, JH
Hello, @jamoiholland! Well, I thought I'd give it a day before putting my hand up, but if no-one else is taking them up I'd be more than happy to give them a home. Or you could get a hub and join in! 
Are you still using any home automation these days?
Hi @andydvsn, thanks for the reply! I have plugs/bulbs/etc from various smart-home manufacturers, Google Home ties it all together. How much work/money is involved in getting these smart plugs back online, and can they integrate with Google Home? Summary detail at this stage only, if you're saying the "art of the possible" is there, I will do research, but with kids na work work my days of in-depth gadget tinkering are gone for a while 
Piece of cake getting them working if you’ve got one of these Hubitat hubs, though I’ve never looked into Google Home integration - perhaps someone else from around here can comment on that?
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Looks like Hubitat has integration with Google Assistant, but I'd be swapping out the control plane of Google Home for Hubitat, which isn't something I'd do for the £155 total cost of the C-7 hub, just to use two old AlertMe plug switches! If you still want to give this gear a home @andydvsn, let me know?
? Not sure I understand you. You can still use GH to do everything you do now it just locally routes to the lights (obviously the call or the app to the hub it cloud). You can also use local controls on top off that.
@ andydvsn
Hey Andy, what's the sequence for pairing the lamp? I can't get my lamp to do anything other than sit there with a whiteish light on.
TIA
Dave.
You’ll need to reset it first. Put a paper clip into the hole on the back and hold the reset button down until the lamp does something (goes blue, I think) then release and start pressing the same reset button repeatedly once per second until the lamp starts double-flashing.
It’s best if Hubitat is in ‘Iris V1’ pairing mode while you do this so it catches the first pairing messages, otherwise it can be a little hit and miss.
Let me know how it goes, as I don’t know of anyone other than me who has a working lamp! If yours works that will almost certainly be only two in use on the planet. 
Thanks mate. I think we have different lamps. Mine is made by Mathmos and has a rubber button underneath it but no pin hole to be seen.
I read somewhere that Alertme did change the lamp at some point in time.
This is the piece that I’d really like to get working. Right now I change my ‘kickspace’ lighting colour depending on if the cat is in or out. But I’d rather have the alertme lamp doing it with more subtlety!
Right, so it has become quite clear that my lamp is FUBAR...I suspect it is from years of being in a damp shed. Anyway, I opened it up and threw the pcb out. I now have it up and running albeit with a Lidl RGBW driver in there and a short coiled length of RGBW strip. It's working well of course (with a Traddfri driver) but tomorrow I might remove the strip and pop some LEDs in there, that way I can fit the original diffuser back in there.
Thanks for the inspiration Andy.
You have the Mathmos one! Ah, I'd been looking for one of those for years!
Do you have a picture of the PCB? It would be really handy to know if it they retrofitted a Mathmos lamp with their own board and if it's the same (or similar) to the board they put in their own lamp.
If you still have it could you take a couple of snaps of it and the lamp itself?
Aww, yes that thing is much nicer than their home-grown product. It's essentially one of the (expensive but sadly discontinued) LED range from Mathmos with a custom AlertMe board inside.
Quick glance and I can't see any sign of a reset on the thing though. I'll bet if we could work out which two connections to short (probably decipherable from the more common board) it'll reset just fine.
The product they took to market is a very similar board, but with an integrated RGB LED instead of the three individual ones and a reset button. Annoyingly the RGB LEDs are poorly balanced, and as they're not RGBW when "white" is selected you can end up with pink. 
Sorry Andy, just saw your reply. You are more than welcome to the PCB if you'd like a play with it.
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