'Aeon HEM V1 Laundry Driver' is NOW working on Hubitat

Well...I guess the only thing to do is migrate one over and go for it! :slight_smile:

1 Like

I recall those things being a little bit of a pain to Pair with the hub. Make sure to properly EXCLUDE it, and possibly perform a FACTORY RESET on it. I would also make sure it is fairly close to the hub, and then make sure you press CONFIGURE immediately after it pairs. I assume you're using USB power, not batteries, correct?

Correct. I upgraded their firmware not that long ago on ST. I don't remember the process being that difficult but resetting them if I remember correctly did cause some issues needing some configurations to be resent to "clear them out" after. I'll have to dig through my notes.

Hmmmm... I am pretty sure I have avoided changing the firmware on my 2 Aeon HEM v1's. I will be interested to hear about your experience to know whether or not it is safe to do so.

Yep, I remember those days too!!! The new firmware was causing crazy numbers in the readings. However the DH I have in ST now is working perfectly with the lastest firmware. I'm about to go grab my code and start peeking at it for HE.

found the answer in my code!!!

	// Perform a complete factory reset. Use this all by itself and comment out all others below.
	// Once reset, comment this line out and uncomment the others to go back to normal
//	zwave.configurationV1.configurationSet(parameterNumber: 255, size: 4, scaledConfigurationValue: 1).format()

Maybe I should start a separate thread for this....

1 Like

If I didn't want to screw with my dryer wiring (US, electric dryer, 220v) if I used both clamps, could I then monitor the approximate usage? I'm just looking for dryer done notification. I'm not familiar enough with how 220v works vs 120v and I've seen people get zapped with 220 and it's not pretty. So, I'd rather avoid that if I could. But I'm pretty sure if I mount one clamp K->L and the other L<-K then they should show me how much is being used by the dryer, right? Or have I completely missed how the whole thing works. :slight_smile:

Thats all I use mine for. I installed mine near the breaker. You only need one clamp on one wire for the dryer. Not sure how you plan to install but the clamp only needs to go around one wire to monitor current.
I used the other clamp for my washer although I don't really monitor it..

It works great and it annoys the wife when I tell her the dryer is done..

Do you have a 120v dryer or a 220v dryer? Because if you put both 110v lines of a 220v supply in the same clamp they will cancel out and read 0 and it won't work, right?

That’s correct, Ryan. You just need one clamp around one of the two hot legs of the 240vac dryer. While it will read only 50% of the actual power being consumed, that’s all that you need to trigger laundry is done notifications. I use one Aeon HEM for my dryer and washer.

This driver reports both clamps independently.

Okay...I get that. But I would rather not screw with the wiring to my dryer and I already have a monitor that works well for my washer. So, I only need it for the dryer. Could I hook it up with both clamps around the whole bundle and be able to monitor it that way? One oriented one way, the other oriented the other direction. Or is one clamp around one wire the only way that it works?

No, that will not work. A CT clamp can only go around one wire, not both. If both wires are in the clamp, it will read zero.

My dryer is 220V and you can only read current around one wire not the bundle.

Even using both clamps?

Correct. Each clamp can only have one wire in it.

Okay. Not going to screw with my 220v. No monitor on the dryer then.

1 Like

No access to your electrical panel? That's where I have mine installed. I'm monitoring the washer with one clamp and the dryer with the other. They are both 240V (supply voltages average 20 volts higher here than in the US). Dryer consumes so much during use and drops to zero when stoped, it's monitoring is flawless.

My washer on the other hand is a PIA to monitor because if fluctuates so near the same current draw when its turning the drum as low speed vs idle. Never drops to zero. I tried moving the camp to the outlet and discovered it made no difference in the accuracy, so I moved it back to the panel.

I'm not going into my electrical panel. That was kinda the whole point of not having to screw with the wiring. But no, there is no easy way for me to get this into my electrical panel anyway. it's too tight. I could get it around the supply lines, as it's designed to be, but there's not enough room to get it around an individual line coming out of a breaker.

I completely understand and commend your respect for electricity.

Here is my latest project that has to do with power monitoring for the house! I have a current transformer around every circuit in the panel so I know exectly how much power is being used, and where.

1 Like

For sure, if you're not comfortable, hire a pro. Shouldn't cost too much as it's a simple job.