Are you sure? 
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Eh. My wall switches always work - hub or no hub.... So not sure that is a real problem to solve in my case.
Yes, if my hub dies my automation of the lights die... But in that event you use the wall switch like a normal switch.
I am very against any setup that makes the wall switch not work 100% of the time for it's basic function - turning lights on and off.
I would never use smart bulbs for that reason.
But each to their own. I know what works for me, which may be different than what works for others.
That my opinion isn't popular? Yes That the device doesn't exist...No
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Remember, if some of these switches are 3 and 3 way, you do not need to have a smart switch at every location. You can use add-on switches or button controllers in the 3 & 4 way switch locations. Only the primary switch needs to be smart.
Seem like the majority of the recommendation is Lutron. These people are crazy in my opinion. I want to join them and recommend Lutron as well. Expensive but could be cheaper depending on the light circuits you have at home. The Pico remote will really save you money with 3 or 4 ways circuits. The reliability is top notch. No mesh issue, delay and just crazy things you can do with the Pico. I mod them for various thing such as Doorbell, my kid room random color changing for smart bulbs, bed side lamp control and mode... Etc..
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One thing to be aware if you choose Lutron Caseta Dimmers...manually turning on the dimmer at the wall sets the lights to 100%. There is no way to change that via software either in the Lutron system or in HE. That is just the way these devices work. This is a complaint that is frequently heard after folks get these dimmers. If you are going to be using motion sensors and setting the lights from HE to a specific level and the dimmer is there only to control the load and as a backup interface, then this isn't a problem since the dimmer will come on to whatever level you program in HE. But if you are going to be using the dimmer's physical buttons as the primary control, this is something to be aware of.
I'm a big Lutron fan...I have over a dozen picos set up. But That is what I primarily use the Lutron system for.
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This is a Caseta issue (limitation). You can set On Level with RA2. Not sure about RA Select though.
Yes, you are correct. I have edited my post. Since spening $500 on a mainline repeater and then $80 a dimmer is out of the question for most folks, I don't even think about RA2.
Basically this. But IMO stay away from RA2 Select. You get 90% of the cost with 50% of the benefit of RadioRA 2 vs Caséta. Full RadioRA 2 gives one access to keypads, ability to program default 'on' levels, and telnet communication for motion sensors.
This is true for Caséta and RA2 Select, but not true for the full RadioRA 2 system. And it can be a significant issue with modern LEDS as some manufacturers are tending to add effective watts to bulbs as they're "free".
I'm willing to wager that none of the previous posters were referring to RadioRA2 or RadioRA2 Select dimmers/switches and were all referring to Caseta, since the pro-bridge is mentioned several times. And again....a RadioRA2 system is a SIGNIFICANT investment in both money and time and retrofitting of the house. If you are even considering such a system, you would not be asking for device advice. You would already know what you were getting.
I hear you... Some people find them useful.
I've owned more than 10 houses, and will admit a few times that might have been useful. But not enough to get into a whole other ecosystem.
But, again, each to their own.
A RadioRA 2 system is just about as easy to install as a Caséta system. There are no wiring differences for equivalent dimmers/switches. The Windows programming software is better than any phone app. The controller, called a Main Repeater, can be a little finicky from a networking perspective as it dates from about 2011, but is not usually an issue.
I started out with a couple Caséta dimmers but became quickly frustrated. The 100% on issue was a big one for me. The other was aesthetic. The 4/5 button Caséta controls look bad IMO as compared to the RadioRA 2 Maestro toggle.
I asked about RadioRA 2 Essentials vs. RA2 Select in these forums and didn't get a definitive answer. By luck I went with the full RadioRA 2 (Essentials).
The cost is higher than Caséta, but less than just comparing list prices especially if one is choosing dimmers with neutral wires. A good dealer will be able to provide a competitive quote. I use and recommend paul@hankselectric.net at http://hankselectric.supply
Higher? I think that is an understatement. The main-line repeater alone is something like $400-$500, right? And in order to get that windows software, you have to pass a certification with Lutron, correct?
A bit more accurate would be to say you can either turn them on 100% or 10% (or whatever that first level actually is) meaning if you hit the top ON button they will come on 100%, however if they are off and you hit the level up button...they come on at the first dim level (I honestly don't know what % it is.) However Ryan is correct there is no control over that.
For me that's not an issue because 90% of my lights are motion activated...then the "On" button is there when I want 100% instead of the current dim rate. I can see how that might not work for others though.
Yeah the cost is much higher.
Main Repeater will cost you anywhere from $300 (used) to about $600 (retail) and you have to be a Lutron dealer to get it or buy from a installer or "know somebody".
Switches/Dimmers can be gotten typically in the $80-$150 range depending on what model/color lighting type options etc etc lots of choices and you can easily get the wrong one for your application ie it will require neutral or won't or will work with LED or won't or will work with ELV etc etc
The MR has a windows software used for configuration. You have to take a online class to get access to the Essential version. This class is free though. For the inclusive where you can configure everything you have to take an in person class at a Lutron facility and this is usually the PA office. This class has a charge of I think $300/$400 last I looked and you have to get there and stay there so... yeah expensive.
Wow! I know this is a fairly common topic, but I was not expecting this much action!
Thank you to everyone who has posted so far, and to those that I am sure will continue to post.
Lutron had not yet been on my radar, didn't necessarily want to add additional hardware in to the mix, but the large consensus here gives me something to really think about.
List price for a Main Repeater is $550. But, again, find a dealer to get a quote. There are used ones on eBay for about $250.
Training/certification for Essentials level is free and takes only a few hours on line. Inclusive training is $600 and is on premises. There are only a couple more device types that Inclusive gives access to. Inclusive also gives one a higher device count. Essentials is 100 and Inclusive is 200. If this is an issue, Hubitat can be used to combine more than 1 system.
Did you miss this:
The word "on" is right there. I did not say "brightening" or "ramping" the dimmer....I said turning it on.
Hitting the up button turns it ON.
What do you call the top button? The ON button. So, i believe everyone can agree, that hitting the top button on a Caseta dimmer would be what is commonly referred to as turning it on. Can I get a ruling from the peanut gallery on this one, please? I mean really, this is what you're going to choose to pick about today? Amazing.
