Addressable RGB Cove Lighting Control

I'm about to purchase a large roll of addressable RGB LEDs.

https://superlightingled.com/newest-dc24v-164164ft-addressable-ws2811-waterproof-music-led-tape-light-kit-length-controller-optional-p-3829.html

They will be going around the crown molding in our finished basement. The controller choices are dizzying! I want an interface that cleanly ties into a home environment and is easy to utilize in an organic fashion. No grab for a phone to make adjustments. I also want local! What's out there that plays the best with Hubitat?

Here is my take on it at this time:
Addressable LEDs are not well supported by things that play directly with Hubitat (or really ANY home automation controller yet). There are some workarounds people have made using WiFi controllers and there is even a community driver I thought I spotted (nevermind what you could do with MakerAPI or coding-your-own) but was not interested in it so I really do not remember the name (sorry). Maybe some searches?

Anyways, the only one I know of at this moment that will directly work with Hubitat (a Z-Wave or ZigBee-type of device) is the Inovelli LZW45 (Z-Wave 700 chipset). They have their own individually addressable LED strips though and do not yet support "DIY" strips on the controller (although they have mentioned it for the future).

There are TONS of devices to control the "dumb" RGB strips. But the addressable ones? Still getting there.

This is what I was afraid of. Anyway not too bad. The set I am getting is highly compatible with andruino boards so I suppose I can do a basic on off and color change with Hubitat while I work on something more. I'll have to check out those drivers too.

Check out pixelblaze, it's freaking amazing and there is an integration

Starting from near zero, I went through the learning curve for this last year. FWIW, here's my take on controller software.

Addressable LEDs are kind of wild west right now -- to make them work, you'll need to be willing to dive in and work with both hardware and software. Commercial solutions are available, and are fine if you absolutely need turnkey equipment. But they're more expensive and likely a lot less flexible. No matter what you chose though, it's worthwhile. You can light things in ways that just aren't possible with other methods.

My two favorite LED controllers are these:

  • If you're comfortable with compiling and flashing Arduino/ESP hardware, but aren't as interested in programming your own effects and settings, WLED is excellent. It supports all popular LED types, has a large library of effects, and is fairly easy to configure. The integration's thread is here: (Aircoookie WLED integration to HE)

  • If you'd prefer ready-to-run hardware that lets you easily program your own effects without having to compile and reflash every time, Pixelblaze is a great choice. It also supports popular LEDs, has a large library of effects, a Web configuration UI, and a helpful user community. (I wrote the integration for Pixelblaze - the thread is here: ([RELEASE] Pixelblaze addressable LED Controller Driver v1.00)

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are the LEDs I linked to in my original post compatible with Pixelblaze?

Digging into the website it looks like they are. I think this is the route I will go!

I've not used those, but ws2011 LEDs are generally compatible.

One thing though - I'm sure you know this, just mentioning it because I've fried a part or two - Be extremely careful about power wiring. 24v LEDs are great for avoiding voltage drop over long runs, but the controllers run at 5v. You'll have to power your controller with a separate 5v supply and connect its ground to the strip ground. But avoid at all costs connecting the 24v lead to the controller's power connector.

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Just to clarify, you mean power the 24v strip with a 24v power supply, the controller with a separate 5v power supply? What does connecting the ground look like?

I have used a separate dc to dc supply to use the 24v to supply 5v for the controller. Connecting the grounds really is just a matter of connecting the two together by whichever method works for you.

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Simply connect all GND and "Minus" pins/terminals together.

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