If you get the 5x flashes, then the hub should be detecting the bulbs. Is the ST hub still on? If so, it may be trying to grab the bulbs right back as soon as they reset. Unplug the ST hub, put HE into discovery and then do the reset on the bulb again.
How far are you from the hub? Sengled don't repeat, so if you're too far the pairing may not work without a repeater nearby.
If I had 2 way between ST & HT I would just leave them on ST. But the 1 way link with the automation I want to setup really hoping they can can be moved to HT
Sorry, it's late. Brain is shutting down. What's HT?
Oh I didnāt know about either of those things. Iāll unplug the ST & do the reset again. They worked great with ST so hopefully itās just the initial pairing. If I need to Iāll add a repeater in my system
Ummm same here trying to shorten hubitat
Ah, we use HE here (Hubitat Elevation) for the name of the product. 
You can get 2 way with a community app called OtherHub 2. But for the lights, you don't want to do that. Sengled are the "Safe" bulb to use directly paired with Hubitat because they don't repeat Zigbee signals, so they don't do a crappy job of it like other bulbs that will end up routing and then subsequently dropping your devices.
Pairing them with the HE hub is best. If you still cannot get them to pair, move them closer to the hub. Typically you want to pair in place, but ST radio is quite strong. So where you may not have needed a repeater in the past, you may now require one. IKEA TrƄdfri outlets are good at repeating not only compliant Zigbee, but also non-compliant Xiaomi devices and they're inexpensive. They also have a dedicated repeater. Were talking $10 for the Outlet and $12 for the dedicated repeater which can also run off a 5v USB connection. I should add that while they happily seem to repeat just about everything, they're not that strong, so if your house is big, get a couple of them.
With my Sengled color bulbs that I had better luck pairing one at a time.
SmartHomePrimer is right, you shouldnāt have many issues with these.
I paired several one floor up and about 25ft from the hub (C4 version) without issues. At the time I had no repeaters at all.
SmartHomePrimer I cannot thank you enough!! Last night was double guessing my move lol Plus was getting late & frustration was setting in after so much more progress in 1 day then 2+ years with ST. Now on to setting up some sort of dashboard & start making rules. My family is grudgingly giving me some slack as they see a lot of progress but keep asking what app to download. Once itās up Iāll break the news no app but look just go to this website lol
Between proper reset with ST off all of the bulbs paired instantly!!!!
We're such a different family I guess. I use Homebridge to expose HE to HomeKit, so you can control lights directly that way in my home. I showed my wife and daughter. I think my daughter used it once, my wife never does. If the light doesn't come on by itself in the places we expect, or they cannot hit a physical button to turn on the light, I'm in big trouble!
Consider using the Alexa app for manual control of devices. You can set up (overlapping) groups, use groups of a single device to make aliases, give the devices new, friendlier names, and define multi-step routines (e.g. "goodnight" = turn off the lights, turn off the TV, set the mode to night, lock the doors, etc) really easily. Then if you want voice control, it's easy to add that too.
OH is that MY family you're talking about?
I have the same.. Homebridge to Homekit. iOS Home app is functional on everyone's iPhone or iPad. Exactly ONE person ever uses it... me.. to test that it's still working!! 
Oh donāt get me wrong I face the same thing as well. Luckily using Alexa as my āinterpreter between all the devices/apps. As well as the voice control abilities has saved me from the dog house plenty of times. Iāll check out HomeBridge, since it would be nice to have control on iOS devices.
But this is the importance of the WAF/FAF.. keeps us grounded in terms of what automation SHOULD do vs all the cool things it COULD do.
Phone apps are nice for the tinkerers and geeky partners but physical on/off, timed and motion automations are usually what get the most acceptance so I start with those.. The more unobtrusive the better. A dashboard can work if it is on a dedicated tablet, mounted somewhere to be more like a switch..
I've ended up putting ST buttons near any desk lamps with smart bulbs just so I can prevent people from physically turning off the lights. (don't have any lutron stuff sadly)
Don't be sad. Order now, operators are standing-by. 
In my house, we rarely use switches. If it isn't motion controlled, voice controlled, contact controlled, or time controlled, my WAF plummets. What's funny is that when we have guests over, it's my wife that can be found boasting about how she hasn't touched a light switch in years and she doesn't miss it at all. LOL
I actually like the Alexa app way of controlling smart devices EXCEPT that since they redesigned the app, it's become such a horribly, slow mess of an app. It sometimes takes over 10 seconds to get to the Devices page on pretty much any of my devices (tablets, phones, etc). For something as simple as going into Alexa to turn on a light in a dark room, that's a problem.
I know, I know!! Have been sorely tempted.. however the "style" does not fit our old house so the WAF is likely low from the start.. also kind of overkill to get a hub just for the picos - not in my mind of course.. 
Is that overkill? I bought the Pro Bridge when I was still on ST, just for a single Pico! 
I now have a grand total of two! 
But, they're amazingly useful and reliable. I'm going to benefit more now that the fan controller is being sold. No regrets on that investment (which was only $50 for me). The sale of my ST hub covered the cost.
@skelsey915 years ago before I got into HA I tackled my undercabinet lights and leveraged the gang boxes to help with wiring. I pulled out the ānew workā box that was nailed to a stud, used a hack saw to cut nails. Then that gave me room to fish the wires to the cabinet and transformer mounted underneath. I then installed an āold workā box to get the outlet back. Around the sink I did the same to fish wires from crawl space since there is a gap between cabinets. Point being donāt be afraid to leverage the outlet and switch boxes to help pull wires.
You could do something similar and install a micro relay to control the transformer power to toggle the lights.
Here is a picture:
That's a great idea I did think of running a separate wire from that box, but didn't think of cutting out the box as you suggested. I have tile like you so good to know that it looks clean.
So just to be clear you have a 110v wire spliced in at the box you replaced and running out through that hole just below the cabinet. And then that's a transformer box to get DC out?
Thanks!
Download the Hubitat app
